Introduction - Welcome to 2023!

Welcome to my 2023 Gallery! :-)

With my preceding annual galleries having become increasingly wordy, my pledge for 2023 is to present my unfolding pictures with relatively little fanfare. Don’t get me wrong, I love a bit of literary background (and there will still be some) - but there’s also a case for giving the images space to breathe, perhaps letting them tell their own stories. Besides, I have a Blog section if I feel the need to prevaricate further!

Keen-eyed viewers will notice that, paradoxically, the opening two sections from my 2023 Gallery actually contain photos from the end of 2022. Put simply, I felt that a couple of themes rolled over from one year to the next: one theme being ‘Cornwall’ (I wished to link my respective family trips of November 2022 and February 2023), and the other being a December 2022 reconnaissance which finally came to fruition with my Hobbit Tree ‘astro’ shoot of January 2023. (In expanded form, the tale of my Hobbit Tree shoot also serves as an addendum to my 2022 Gallery.)

I must admit, there is a more prosaic reason for including some highlights from late 2022: namely, these selections formed the earliest entries of the New section from my freshly-compiled Portfolio. The content of this New section is designed to turn over as even newer photos are added, so I wanted to preserve my initial selections here. And if you wish to see more highlights, please do check out my overall Portfolio (which I began to put together in the ‘gap’ between 2022 and 2023 photoshoots).

Anyway, enough of my wittering - I hope you all enjoy my 2023 Gallery. I’m not sure where it will lead myself, so I look forward to finding out… :-)

2022 Rollover - Cornish Capers (Roseland Peninsula, November 2022)

This section contains brief highlights of a family trip to Cornwall’s Roseland Peninsula during November 2022. (We were lucky enough to be staying at The Sunday House, an impressive chapel conversion and subject of the astro shot below.)

For a full write-up of this holiday, and many more pics, please see the Shores of St. Mawes section of my 2022 Gallery.

2022 Rollover - Riverside Reconnaissance (Devon, December 2022)

Late December of 2022 found me visiting a local Devon beauty spot, Killerton Park, in search of a foreground for a planned astro shoot. My plan was to locate a striking tree (or similar terrestrial feature), then return on a moonless starry night to capture it against a backdrop of long-exposure ‘star trails’.

I didn’t find my foreground until a subsequent recce (in the New Year), though I did take a handful of woodland-themed test shots.

For more on this, please see the Foreground Attraction - Riverside Reconnaissance section of my 2022 Gallery. (The Riverside label refers to the nearby River Culm, though it doesn’t appear in the shots presented here!) :-)

 

Winter Moon Tree
(Killerton Park, Devon)

 

The Hobbit Tree (Devon Astro, January 2023)

My chosen subject for the January 2023 astro shoot turned out to be Killerton’s distinctive Hobbit Tree (as I nicknamed it).

After awaiting the right conditions for a couple of weeks, the stars finally aligned (as it were) on the eve of my birthday. On this dark and chilly night, I essentially generated two versions of the same composition: firstly, a single 15-second exposure (showing ‘realistic’ stars); and secondly, a blended long exposure covering a time window of around 30 minutes (showing ‘star trails’).

For further details of the story behind this shoot (including a snow flurry and an unnerving Highland Coo encounter), please see the Hobbit Tree Addendum which concludes my 2022 Gallery. :-)

Cornwall Revisited (Coast and Country, February 2023)

Late February found us picking up our Cornish theme of the previous November, although this time venturing to the county’s north coast rather than south.

We also exchanged our earlier chapel conversion for a pastoral barn conversion, which proved to be less grand though more homely. And while this was very much a rural retreat, we were within comfortable striking distance of the sea - enabling us to take full advantage of both coast and countryside! :-)

Good Omens - The Revelation of Roche Rock

My first photoshoot of the trip was in fact an inland location, the venue inspired by the cover image of our holiday OS map (Sheet #200, ‘Newquay and Bodmin’). I’m ashamed to say that I was previously unfamiliar with Roche Rock, but quickly (and excitedly) learnt of its fearsome aspect and haunted reputation.

I set off for Roche early on our second morning. It was a day of dark skies and cold showers, interspersed with occasional bursts of sunshine - in many ways, ideal for what I wanted.

If I was expecting Gothic vibes, the place certainly didn’t disappoint. I took my time, trying different viewpoints as I attempted to tune in to the brooding atmosphere. My favourite shot would turn out to be a moody monochrome, with threatening (horned?) clouds overhead and a lone raven (or crow) approaching the tumbledown crest of St. Michael’s Chapel/Hermitage.

It was only later that I discovered a similar composition (and spooky vibe) had been used in the cinematography of the 1981 horror flick, Omen III. The movie reveals grisly goings-on within those ruined walls, while the Omen franchise also (naturally) features a demonic raven. I’m glad I didn’t know all this beforehand, else I’d have definitely thought twice about climbing the rickety ladder to that chapel’s ‘ominous’ interior! :-0

Snowdrops (Treveighan Hedgerow)

Wild Blue Flax
(Treveighan Hedgerow)

Aside from my moorland shoot at Roche, plus a more gentle perusal of country lane wildflowers, our daily jaunts would mainly be spent exploring the dramatic North Cornish coast.

One of the most celebrated destinations along this stretch of shore is Tintagel, whose windswept headland and ruined remains cradle the fabled seat of King Arthur. Deep beneath the castle lurks Merlin’s Cave, where the great wizard - according to legend - saved the infant Arthur from the waves.

Now this was a family visit rather than a photoshoot, but with magic in the air I managed to borrow Karen’s wee camera and fire off a few shots of Merlin’s Cave. Since nothing is quite what it seems with Merlin (or the wider world of myth and mischief), one of them somehow ended up as an abstract…

Early on in the holiday, Karen and I (and doggies) found a particularly fine local beach at a place known as Trebarwith Strand. It was low tide when we visited, allowing us to enjoy the wide expanse of sand and explore a nearby cave.

Surrounded by such compelling coastal scenery, and with Gull Rock providing an obvious offshore subject, I decided to return the following day for a Twilight Challenge-style sunset shoot. I knew the tide would be relatively high, but my priority was to time my trip for sunset and see what I could capture.

The images which ensued are not necessarily my best - but I’d like to say a few words about the story behind them, and to share some lessons which have been reinforced as a result. For the truth is, what should have been an innocuous sunset shoot on an easily-accessible beach turned out to be the riskiest photo session I’ve ever embarked upon. In fact, mostly due to my own poor judgement, it’s right up there with the hairiest mountain (mis)adventures of my youth! :-0

Trebarwith Strand, Family Visit -
The ‘Cliff Ledge’ from my later photoshoot is visible at background left
(Photo by Karen Scott)

Trebarwith Strand - Rocky the dog
examines a coastal cave for ‘Rock art’
(Photo by Karen Scott)

An Appreciation of the Common Limpet - ’Stranded’ at Trebarwith Strand!

The sky looked enticing upon arrival at Trebarwith for my Twilight Challenge (the challenge being to capture an archetypally Cornish scene in the short time before sundown). To counter this optimistic outlook, I found that the rising tide was already higher than I’d anticipated. The breaking waves were, in fact, just about to over-run the last remaining slither of sand beneath the cliff at the back of the bay.

The question was, where to position myself for an effective sunset composition? I wandered down the narrow runnel which leads to the beach, but could proceed no further on account of the high water. And although I could have taken a picture from here, I was really looking for a more original vantage point. Then behind me, higher up to the right, I noticed a gaggle of tourists scramble across the rock to a broad ledge which ran around the lower part of the cliff. The scrambling was safe and easy (if you like that sort of thing), so I headed up in that direction and joined the folk on a rocky platform, where they were having fun soaking up the atmosphere and snapping the sea and sunset.

Watery Sunset
(Stranded at Trebarwith Strand!)

I felt a little self-conscious at setting up my tripod here… after all, it wasn’t really my vantage point. But I noticed that, if I carried on by clambering more steeply down, I could skirt the waves and continue round a small rocky promontory. Though the gap between tide and cliff was narrowing in this direction, I could see that it would lead to a more interesting foreground, allowing the sun to drop behind a blocky islet just to the left of Gull Rock. So off I went, blindly chasing the sunset…

I soon found myself hopping across large boulders, which I realised the still-rising tide would consume within minutes. I obviously had to be careful here, and scanned the cliff before committing myself. Thankfully, I saw that I could comfortably return at a slightly higher level, where an easy-angled ledge abutted the rockface above. I proceeded with caution.

Upon attaining a suitable angle for the sunset (conveniently where surf and turf barred further progress!), I hurriedly set up my tripod and fitted my wide-angle lens. As I fired off some shots, the tide advanced ever closer. Even my higher-level escape route was beginning to look decidedly perilous. Time, as they say, was clearly of the essence. Abandoning plans to experiment with bracketing or filters, I snatched up my tripod (camera still attached) and beat a hasty retreat…

If you hadn’t already guessed it, this is where things got a little ‘interesting’. The mistake that I’d made (aside from being here at all) was in failing to notice that the cliff behind me was overhanging, and consequently dripping. These drips had coated my escape ledge was a thick coating of slime, which had been further moistened - and given the consistency of black ice - by spray from the encroaching waves. This ledge may have been easy-angled, yet on a frictionless surface any incline at all can prove insurmountable.

I was soon on all fours, then slithering on my stomach, in an increasingly desperate attempt to gain purchase. The slime quickly transferred to my hands, so I donned gloves in the vain hope that this might improve my grip. I swung my tripod and (towel-clad) camera like an ice-axe, trying forlornly to extend my reach and hook some nook or cranny. I didn’t have far to go, yet each yard of progress felt like a country mile.

The crux was a smooth inclined slab with no discernible holds. It culminated in a step up to a drier section of rock (Hallelujah!), to which I gingerly pushed my tripod. The trouble was, to cross the slab I would have to commit to a kind-of holdless wriggle - and when friction failed (as I instinctively knew it would), I would be sent tobogganing down the rock into the boulders and breakers below.

Then I saw it… a little way down the angled slab, a lone limpet had attached itself to the rock (as limpets do). It only presented a couple of square centimetres to the world - not much to aim for when wearing Wellington boots - yet this morsel of mollusk amounted to the only non-slimy bobble in the neighbourhood.

It was a textbook case of “Beggars can’t be choosers” (or perhaps, given the nautical theme, “Any port in a storm”)!

Clinging On for One More!

Now I’d no idea how adhesive limpets were, and this clearly wasn’t the ideal means of finding out - but I re-positioned the toe of my boot as delicately as I could, balancing (in my mind) like a ballerina, and tentatively shifted my weight onto it. The poor limpet had to withstand not only my own weight, but that of the heavy rucksack on my back (which rather spoils the ballerina analogy!).

I held my breath, bracing myself for the breakneck slide which I felt sure would ensue. But nothing happened. Nothing bad, at least. I gradually breathed out. Then I reached across and scrabbled, unceremoniously, onto the dry patch of rock.

I remember audibly thanking that limpet, unashamedly conversing with a gastropod for the first and hopefully only time in my life! :-)

Losing the Light (yet keeping perspective)…
The view of Gull Rock that I should have taken all along, from the broad, safe platform!

The tourists did a double take when I emerged back at the broad rock platform, covered in slime and spray. I nodded nonchalantly (or so I imagined), as though everything was under control. I even stood up my tripod and took another shot, though in truth this was partly a show of normality and partly an excuse to slump down and compose myself. More pragmatically, it was also a check to see whether my camera had been broken by its impromptu use as a climbing hammer. (I thought it had at first, as I couldn’t change the aperture setting - though it turned out that my flailing had simply knocked a lens switch!)

So what lessons did I learn from all of this? Well, most obviously, don’t mess with a rising tide. Just don’t. Or if you do, make sure you really know the lie of the land, like the back of your (slimy) hand.

Also, you don’t always have to find an original composition. Sometimes, folk will gather somewhere because it offers a good view and a safe location. Embrace it. And yes, it’s possible that my final sunset shot (captured from the safe location) might just be my favourite. It’s somehow less cluttered, and avoids blown out highlights around the sun. So perhaps - as is so often the case - the thing that I was looking for was right in front of me the whole time.

But my main lesson from this whole sorry escapade, my takeaway pearl of wisdom… aren’t limpets amazing? I don’t think I’ll look at one in quite the same way ever again! :-)

Sundown Silhouettes - Beating the Blues at Boscastle

I find that the final couple days of a holiday can be bittersweet, as we battle to stay one step ahead of those end-of-break blues. Keeping active is a good way of combating this feeling, which in my case often means signing off with a last-gasp photoshoot!

For this particular break, the dramatic harbour mouth at Boscastle was worthy of shoots on my final two evenings. In between, we even embarked upon a family day-trip to the village. Overkill, perhaps, yet it usually takes a few visits to really get a feel for a place.

And so it would prove, for I would end up being much more enthused by a concluding batch of ad-hoc images - which I’d arrived at organically, almost by accident - than by the iconic (though ultimately forced) view which I’d set out to capture.

Boscastle Becalmed - The River Wild (incredibly, many vehicles and buildings were washed down this channel during the infamous flood of August 2004)

Relaxing at Boscastle
(Photo by Karen Scott)

The classic view in question - one of those Cornish ‘shortbread tin’ images - was of Boscastle’s fjord-like harbour entrance.  This is what drove me to chase the sunset on those two consecutive evenings, hoping to combine a great location with great light or a spectacular sky.

My first evening was OK as a reconnaissance, though conditions were cloudy. No matter; recces can work wonders for fine-tuning. Viewing the resulting image later, for example, I felt that I needed a more interesting foreground at bottom-right.  In addition, I wanted slightly more separation between the far headland and a distant pointy sea stack (a striking feature which deserves a better name than Short Island).

So I returned on my final evening, moving higher up the scrubby slope to gain 'stack separation' and find a foreground. The latter turned out to be a flowering gorse bush, augmented by a small jutting rock which I hoped subtly mirrored the harbour wall beneath!

Unfortunately, I wasn't completely happy with either of these attempts. While they do hopefully make for an interesting comparison, there’s no escaping the fact that the angle isn't particularly original (despite my attempted micro-adjustments). And although I’d diligently followed the rulebook by arriving at ‘golden hour’, there’s no denying that the light wasn't great on either occasion.

Given this disappointment, my concluding Boscastle twilight shots were an unexpected bonus.  And as mentioned above, they were really just a happy accident, only arising because I’d again found myself in a slightly awkward predicament.

The truth is, in searching for my eventual sunset vantage point, I'd become enmeshed in a mass of prickly gorse and brambles. As the light began to fail, and as my snagged jeans will testify, this proved to be maddeningly difficult to escape.  So much so, in fact, that I decided my optimum route was to climb upwards, scrambling over a small crag and finally re-joining a path atop the headland behind me. This path then led in a looping descent alongside coastal cliffs.

Because this inevitably took a while, I was still out there as the disappearing sun - having long since set - suddenly painted an orange glow on the western horizon. At the same time, Jupiter and Venus emerged from the ether in close conjunction. As I paused to take it all in, I noticed I’d reached an angle at which Short Island became neatly framed between bristly foreground rocks. I realised that this was what I’d come for all along - yet, if I hadn’t got hopelessly embroiled in the undergrowth, I’d have been back at the car park by now, blissfully unaware of what I was missing.

I probably didn’t do the scene justice with my camera, but it was wonderful just being there. The glow stayed with me as I returned to the holiday barn for that unavoidable last-night packing! ;-)

 

Sunset Silhouette
(Boscastle Gloaming)

 
 

Lonely Planets
(Jupiter and Venus in Conjunction over the North Cornish Coast)

 

Easter Morning (Devon Dawn, April 2023)

Rising early on Easter Sunday, I’d intended this saunter round my local Devon fields to be a wildlife photoshoot, perhaps featuring some gamboling Easter bunnies. I’d committed to this idea by pre-fitting my telephoto lens and leaving behind other camera gear (including tripod), my aim being to remain mobile and shoot handheld short exposures.

Yet much as I Iove wildlife, I don’t think coaxing out the critters is my particular forte. Perhaps the bunnies were still in their beds, wearing ‘hare-nets’ (and who could blame them?). I did conclude by photographing one skittery treetop bird, but the scene which really drew my eye was a hazy dawn over the Culm Vale.

My favourite shot utilised a gap between foreground logs to form a natural vignette - though it did involve lying face-down in the dirt, much to Karen’s disgust when I later returned home with muddy trousers (which had inevitably been washed the day before). Evidently, you’re never too long-in-the-tooth to excuse this type of unseemly behaviour! :-0

Home From Home (Isle of Arran, May 2023)

Arran Blueprint - Re-align to Island Time

Arran has indeed become a Home From Home to us over recent years, though I must admit that my use of this phrase here is a little tongue-in-cheek. On numerous occasions, Karen has been subjected to my mini-rants about people’s description of our various holiday cottages as a Home From Home (or Home Away From Home) in their respective Visitor Books. It’s lazy and clichéd writing, I’ve protested. And OK, my protests have been lodged ironically - these are comments by random guests, not Booker Prize nominees - but nonetheless, there’s just enough truth behind it to suggest that my own adoption of the cliché should also be ironic!

As for my cheesy sub-heading, Re-align to Island Time… well, this references a well-worn tag-line - Island Time, In No Time - which is plastered over various information boards on the local CalMac ferries. With its snappy promise of fast passage to the relaxed pace of island life, I suspect this slogan raises a wry smile (or worse) amongst regular passengers, who over recent months have witnessed a headline-grabbing decline in reliability of the service.

Our own fast passage to Arran’s Island Time would prove to be cruelly delayed on this particular holiday, when - after making good time to Ardrossan and queueing for an early ferry - the vehicle immediately in front of us took the last available slot on the car deck. Still, it is from such adversity (first world problems, I know) that great holidays are born! ;-)

Island Time At Last…
Ambling along ‘Fisherman’s Walk’, Brodick
(Photo by Karen Scott)

As for my overall collection of sub-headings… well, if the Isle of Arran itself can be regarded as our Home From Home, then it surely makes sense for this home to be furnished with Blueprints, Interiors, Exteriors and Rooflines. Wordplay aside, the current Blueprint section is basically just an overview. And to clarify further… when I refer to Interiors and Exteriors, I’m speaking figuratively about island locations - inland vs coast - as opposed to indoor vs outdoor photography (notwithstanding a couple of genuine indoor scenes below)!

Anyway, it so happens - more by luck than judgment - that my main photoshoots for the trip fall neatly into the Interiors, Exteriors and Rooflines categories when considered chronologically. So I’ll expand this idea below, garnishing each sub-heading with a brief introduction and a sprinkling of those all-important holiday snaps (suitably credited if not taken by yours truly)! :-)

Exploring Arran’s Eastern Exterior…
On the beach at Whiting Bay
(Photo by Karen Scott)

Definitely an Interior…
Moogie and Rocky fashion a Holiday ‘Home From Home’
(Photo by Karen Scott)

Now to Arran’s ‘Wild Western’ Exterior…
Joined by Mel on Blackwaterfoot Beach
(Photo by Karen Scott)

Another Interior…
Karen and Rocky may be indoors,
but they’re definitely still lapping up the sun! :-)

Previous guests at Kildonan
(a.k.a. ‘The Town of Bedrock’)
evidently included the Dinosaur which left this famous print on the shore! :-0

Exterior & Roofline of our Kildonan ‘Home From Home’
(a.k.a. Grianan Cottage)

The Roofline of Arran…
Goatfell reaches into the clouds,
viewed across Brodick Bay

Another Arran Roofline, and
‘A View to Die For’…
Goatfell from Glen Rosa Cemetery

Gable Ends - Arran’s Northern Mountains Materialise through the Mist
(Photo by Karen Scott)

I’ll now move on to consider the Interior of Arran in a little more detail, focusing on some images of her waterfalls and forests. I’ll then surf along to the coast - to Arran’s seashore and sealife - before crash-landing, almost inevitably, back amongst the rugged heights of Glen Sannox. And Sannox will lead me to a macabre addendum, in which I’ll briefly explore the history and intrigue surrounding the gruesome Goatfell Murder. Or was it murder? This is where the intrigue comes in!

Window to Another World… Kilbride Cemetery, Lamlash (Photo by Karen Scott)

Arran Interiors - Falls and Forest

Kildonan Hedgerow
(Photo by Karen Scott)

Although our holiday accommodation was very much centred on Arran’s southern shoreline, I tentatively turned to the island’s interior - to its forests and waterfalls - for my initial camera excursions.

My first photoshoot was of Eas Mòr Wood, which fringes a deep-cut burn on the hilly slopes above Kildonan. I’d been here before, but this time I wanted to leave the beaten track and try a form of ‘canyoning’, forging my way along the stream bed into the verdant semi-wilderness of the forest. I slid, scrambled and waded as far as a fallen tree, its bulk resembling a giant squid which had somehow been beached in front of a mini-waterfall. Whether or not this tree made a squid-like noise as it fell remains one of life’s imponderable mysteries!

During my return I experimented with some slightly more intimate (macro) shots, including an upside-down forest spider which I felt served as a miniature, animated version of the fallen squid-tree. There was also plenty of wild garlic (more than enough to keep the vampires away!).

It’s curiously typical of Scotland’s fickle climate that the start of our holiday seemed to alternate between days of sun and days of rain. To my mind, this keeps things interesting… and even the rainy days can be photogenic, as evidenced by the bulging West Kildonan Waterfall which I re-visited and captured (just about!) during a break between downpours.

A similarly wet excursion was spent locating a lone tree which I’d spotted on a secluded hillside above Lamlash. I’d hoped that this might provide a distinctive foreground to Holy Isle (or some other grand vista), though in truth it turned out to be a literal damp squib (i.e. literally damp; not a literal squib!). Holy Isle was barely visible through the murk, and anyway the angles seemed all wrong (even if my lens hadn’t been spattered with rain!). I ended up with an uninspiring silhouette, which I attempted to jazz up a little through some arty post-processing!

Wedged between West Kildonan Waterfall and the Lamlash Lone Tree - chronologically speaking - is my final photoshoot of this Arran Interiors section, at Glenashdale Falls and Forest. This shoot was also largely undertaken in the rain… which, come to think of it, dominated my early photographic forays slightly more than I’d realised! :-(

Like Eas Mòr Wood and West Kildonan Waterfall, this would be a repeat visit for me - but for this holiday, I was hoping to garnish some old favourites with new moods or fresh compositions. In the case of Glenashdale, my plan was to keep low to the river, approaching the double falls from below rather than re-shooting them from the high wooden platform which forms a fine yet unoriginal viewpoint. Maybe I’d find some fast-flowing cascades as foreground?

Greater Things To Come… a mini-cascade above Glenashdale Falls

Unfortunately, my intended approach - so easily planned on the map - proved to be next to impossible on the ground. The falls are situated in quite a ravine, whose lower reaches are guarded by thick vegetation and vertiginous drops. After being beaten back a couple of times, I once again found myself at the ubiquitous viewing platform!

The silver lining was that this prompted me to search for a more intimate composition, eventually locating a bluebell on the bank of Glenashdale’s Iron Age Fort. On that bluebell was a raindrop; and in the raindrop was an inverted image of the forest itself!

Arran Exteriors - Surf and Sealife

If you’ll excuse the mixed metaphors, Surf and Sealife is really the ‘bread and butter’ of my Arran photographic experience. Not only were we staying just a pebble’s throw from the beach (at Kildonan), but all of Arran’s main settlements are basically seaside communities, strung out along a single coastal road which weaves, sometimes bumpily, around the island’s extremity. And more to the point, we love the sea, its changing moods and wildlife being an ever-present source of fascination and wonder. Sometimes, if you’re good, there’s even ice-cream to be had!

I’ve alluded above to the bumpy roads… and I speak from experience, as it was during our middle weekend that part of our car suspension fell off while motoring merrily toward the summit of the String Road! To be fair, I don’t blame the island for this - the car’s service was overdue, and we’d been hearing suspicious rattles since racing through the North of England on our upward journey. Still, this wee episode resulted in our grounding for a couple of days at our Kildonan cottage, while we waited for the relevant coiled spring to arrive at Whiting Bay Garage (who did a great job, by the way!). This further skewed our holiday photo opportunities toward the coast, which - when you’re staying somewhere like Arran - is never really a hardship! ;-)

‘Car Repair Day’ at Whiting Bay (Holy Isle beyond)

Whiting Bay Resident - Ubiquitous Heron
(Photo by Karen Scott)

Brodick Beach Residents - Acting the Goat(fell)
(Photo by Karen Scott)

Corrie Resident - Sneaky Seal Sculpture
(Photo by Karen Scott)

Memorial Rock - Drumadoon Point, Blackwaterfoot
(Photo by Karen Scott)

Enjoying our local beach (for local people?), Kildonan
(Photo by Mel Grenfell)

I’ll conclude this brief introduction to Surf and Sealife with a handful of holiday snaps from our Kildonan base.

The colonial panache of Drimla Lodge has been ever-present for our past few holidays; indeed, it cropped up in last year’s highlights in ‘astro’ guise under the melodramatic moniker of Spooky Mansion. It remains deserted and a little spooky, offering a ghostly call-back to the extravagant Clark family who commissioned it in the late 1800s. That’s Clark as in the shoe dynasty (so it’s apt they were evidently so well heeled!).

The matching Flower and Tower Pladda pics (alternately focusing on flower & tower) were belatedly snapped from our driveway as I packed up the car to leave. They were taken as a nod to my friend Rod Ismay, who specialises in this type of creative scene over in sunny Yorkshire (#flowersandtowers).

Drimla Lodge, Kildonan
(a.k.a. ‘Spooky Mansion’)

Flower and Tower
(Pladda from Kildonan)

Tower and Flower
(Pladda from Kildonan)

Before exploring Arran’s seashore and sealife in a little more detail, I’ll present a mini-sequence of images from the middle of our holiday. This was a day of dramatically shifting sea fog, often known as haar (though it’s no laughing matter!). I’d managed to miss the best of the daytime conditions, being slightly underwhelmed by my ad-hoc attempts to photograph Holy Isle on a family trip to Lamlash. But the haar had returned by the time we returned to Kildonan that evening, so I headed up a farm track to gain some elevation and gaze out over Pladda. With its lighthouse beginning to fire up, this modest comma of land appeared to be holding back the bank of fog, almost suspended between sea and sky. Darkness was falling by the time I packed away my camera gear, my final challenge being to evade a large bull which had somehow taken up residence across my homeward path! :-0

Arran Rooflines - The Battle of Sannox Burn

I don’t get to traverse mountain rooflines much nowadays, yet hill-country remains my most compelling inspiration for dabbling in landscape photography. As I grow older, I’m conscious that my ability to wander the heights will only diminish… but maybe (so the theory goes) I can still potter round the glens, soaking up the mountain ambience with camera in hand?

I’ve previously written about Arran’s interlocking pair of ‘great glens’, Rosa and Sannox. These are, in fact, two of the finest mountain valleys in the whole of Scotland (and therefore the UK), offering not only scenic grandeur but genuinely thrilling skylines for the keen hill-walker, scrambler or climber.

For this particular holiday, it was the turn of Glen Sannox to occupy my photographic muse. More specifically, my beady eye had spied compositions in the glen’s secluded ‘upper coire’, which nestles between the rocky ramparts of Cìr Mhòr and Caisteal Abhail. Judging by earlier imagery, I sensed that this might provide a stunning angle on Cìr Mhòr’s tapering north face, viewed from below rather than from the usual elevated viewpoint of Caisteal Abhail itself.

Glen Sannox ‘Lone Tree’
(Photo by Karen Scott)

In the event, I was to visit Glen Sannox twice as the holiday progressed. The first of these was a family outing with Karen, Mel and the doggies, exploring the lower reaches of the glen and having some fun crossing the Sannox Burn via a chain of boulder-like stepping stones. (It might be a stretch to call this The Battle of Sannox Burn, but I never can resist a bad pun!)

Although this wasn’t actually a photoshoot, I did briefly ‘borrow’ Karen’s wee Canon to join her and Mel in snapping merrily away. More pertinently, I found the experience of sharing such a special place to be a joy in itself; after all, if the aim of photography is to share a love of nature or wilderness (however fleetingly), it’s surely even more powerful to do so in person, engendering a communal sense of just ‘being there’?

If nothing else, we all worked up an appetite for lunch - which was soon satiated in the shoreside garden of the Corrie Hotel!

Contemplating Glen Sannox
(Photo by Mel Grenfell)

Family Dynamic - Rocky receives a helping hand,
while Karen the geologist examines an interesting rock! (Photo by Mel Grenfell)

Cut Granite -
Mel sizes up a Sannox ‘Split Boulder’

By the time I returned for my Glen Sannox photoshoot, on the far side of those car suspension repairs, the final day of the holiday was already upon us. Sadly, I never did make it as far as that ‘upper coire’ (Coire na h-Uaimh). It’s the sort of destination which is always a little bit further and rougher than anticipated… and besides, the summit of Cìr Mhòr remained wreathed in grey cloud, which didn’t exactly justify the tricky-looking ascent to what was clearly a cliff-bound viewpoint. Instead, after an abortive foray onto the lower slopes of the Goatfell massif, I returned to the Sannox Burn and settled for that time-honoured watery foreground!

This proved to be a self-inflicted sequel to The Battle of Sannox Burn, for I found that I could only achieve the optimum angle by picking up my tripod and actually wading into the burn (which quickly overwhelmed my walking boots). Not only that, but in stooping to dial in camera settings, my rear end repeatedly dunked itself into the water! Still, at least I managed to avoid dropping any camera gear into the drink (though I probably threw some decidedly odd shapes while struggling with lenses and filters, etc.).

The mini-sequence below starts with four more snapshots from our family visit to Glen Sannox, then presents a couple variations from my final-day photoshoot (culminating in Calm Before the Storm). As for that ‘upper coire’… well, there’s always next time! :-)

At the risk of ending on a ghoulish note, this account wouldn’t be complete without mention of our visit to Sannox Cemetery and the story associated with its most notorious grave - so please do read on for a brief history of the grisly Goatfell Murder of 1889!

Arran Intrigue - The Curious Case of Rose and Laurie

Shades of Rose and Laurie?
(Anonymous Climbers, Arran’s A’Chir Ridge - Sept 2018)

Before bidding farewell to Glen Sannox and concluding my 2023 Arran gallery, I wanted to share just a couple more newly-taken shots - but since these depict an old grave in Sannox Cemetery, it’s only right that I should first set the scene with a little historical context. And when I say ‘historical context’, that’s actually quite a sedate way of putting it… others, more inclined to melodrama, might call this A Sordid Tale of Murder and Mayhem in the Mountains (though the ‘murder’ part remains open to question). Either way, the location and age of this grim affair certainly make it a ‘cold case’! :-0

For greater depth - perhaps a more ‘compelling telling’ of this tale - please see my latest illustrated blog, The Curious Case of Rose and Laurie (available from March 2024).

Or, for even more detail, I can recommend Calum Smith’s 2020 book, The Goatfell Murder (available in all good bookstores… and no, I’m not on commission!).

Since this particular page is supposed to be my 2023 Gallery, I’ll keep things relatively concise… although I will cheat slightly by bringing in some earlier hill-walking snaps which depict the scene of the crime (as it were).

 

Scene of the Crime…
Arran’s Goatfell Range forms a backdrop to craggy Cìr Mhòr
(From the slopes of Caisteal Abhail, Sept 2020)

 

Acting the Goat(fell)…
The cover of ‘The Goatfell Murder’ actually depicts Cìr Mhòr’s Rosa Pinnacle, akin to this shot from Sept 2018

The incident occurs in July of 1889. Around the Firth of Clyde, this is the golden age of the paddle steamer. The annual Glasgow Fair heralds an exodus of city-dwellers, escaping the industrial smog for the fresh air and calming waters of the coast. But while the summer tourism boom is largely fed by locals, some visitors come from further afield… such as a 32-year-old English tourist named Edwin Robert Rose.

Edwin - known to family and friends as Ned - has taken up residence at an exclusive seafront hotel in Rothesay, on the Isle of Bute. He is a builder’s clerk on a welcome break from London, where Jack the Ripper has been terrorising the neighbourhood for the past year or so. By all accounts Ned is an affable chap, a well groomed single man with luxuriant Victorian moustache. He is teetotal, as befits his Sunday school affiliations, yet carries a hip-flask for ‘medicinal’ purposes (suggesting that he also carries a twinkle in his eye!).

Taking a boat-trip to the renowned Isle of Arran, Ned engages in conversation with a like-minded traveler: a 28-year-old pattern-maker from Glasgow who introduces himself as John Annandale. Both are natty dressers, perhaps drawn to the high life. And this might even be a literal high life, for both are also drawn to the jagged profile of Arran’s northern mountains. They provide an obvious challenge to anyone seeking adventure, bringing a wedge of Highland wilderness to the otherwise genteel surroundings.

Not exactly Whitechapel…
On Arran’s Pirnmill Hills
(a far cry from Jack the Ripper’s London),
looking across Kintyre to the
distant Paps of Jura (May 2019)

Ned and John decide to return to Arran for a few days, seemingly on a whim, to explore the island and ‘bag’ its highest summit. John may have climbed it before, which makes him the pair’s de-facto guide. He finds basic lodgings in a Brodick outbuilding, where Ned will join him. The impressive cone of Goatfell, their target peak, dominates the view across the bay.

The Mountains of Arran, seen from the south (Sept 2020);
Goatfell is the high, prominent peak on the right (east)

Planet Granite…
Approaching Goatfell summit from the south (Oct 2018)

Despite forming such a quickfire friendship, the two men are actually strangers to each other. This leaves plenty of room for secrets - and unbeknownst to Ned Rose, John isn’t really called Annandale. As far as we know, Ned never does discover his companion’s true identity: John Watson Laurie, a part-time petty thief who adopts a pseudonym for nefarious purposes. Indeed, when Laurie (a.k.a. Annandale) steps ashore on Arran, he does so clutching a conspicuous yellow holdall which he’s believed to have ‘acquired’ from a hapless fellow passenger on the steamer. From the outset, it’s possible that Ned - who gives the appearance of being wealthier than he actually is - is being groomed for similar treatment.

They are joined on Arran by a couple of other new-found pals from Ned’s Rothesay retreat, and time seems to pass in a social whirl. They see the sights (Ned is excited by Glen Rosa), play billiards (sampling the decadent Douglas Hotel), and are introduced to high-flying ‘friends of friends’ (including a shindig on a private yacht). Laurie, however, seems slightly withdrawn, complaining of toothache and sometimes disappearing for a while. He also hints that Ned has imposed himself for the duration of their visit.

Notwithstanding Laurie’s apparent wavering, he and Ned plan to ascend Goatfell on their final day together. One of their mutual acquaintances advises Ned against it - using the Victorian vernacular, he claims that Laurie is ‘not a clean potato’. But Ned evidently wants to climb Goatfell, and this is his sole opportunity before returning home to London.

On the day in question - Monday 15th July - the pair delay their expedition to wave off their friends on the afternoon steamer. This makes them curiously late starting; you might say irresponsibly late, given that they intend to go right over the summit of Goatfell and descend via a hazardous route into Glen Sannox. But still, they pick up the tourist track from Cladach (near Brodick), and fall in with some other walkers. Ned and Laurie are seen to reach the summit around 6pm, and admire the famous view. Though Laurie is a little quiet, they are seemingly in good spirits.

“Goat-fell-it on the Mountain” (as the song goes!) - The Roof of Arran, viewed from the Ardrossan-Brodick ferry (Sept 2018).
The solid annotated line marks the standard tourist route from Brodick (specifically Cladach), which Rose and Laurie followed (more or less) for their July 1889 ascent,
before traversing the bobbly North Ridge (‘The Stacach’) and descending on the far side of the col beyond North Goatfell.
(The dashed line denotes my own cross-country ascent route of October 2018.)

Then, as now, the majority of successful summiteers return by simply reversing their ascent route. If they’ve climbed Goatfell via the established path from Cladach (or a similarly well-worn route from Corrie), this is by far the safest option. As mentioned, however, Ned and Laurie harbour grander aspirations. Unlike their fellow walkers, they head north from the summit, along a ridge of bobbly granite tors known as ‘The Stacach’. Beyond this they hope to descend remote, rugged terrain into Glen Sannox, either for aesthetic reasons (the glen is justifiably famed for its ‘savage grandeur’), or because one of the party has a dark ulterior motive. Either way, when the two men are observed leaving Goatfell summit around 6:20pm, it is the last time Ned Rose is seen alive.

My own solo foray along the southern Glen Sannox skyline (May 2019), treading much the same ground as Rose and Laurie 130 years earlier;
the prominent image at top-right depicts the notorious granite ‘Rock Monster’ (as I call it), which straddles the North-West Ridge of North Goatfell.
(I wish I could credit the friendly walker who took my photo atop North Goatfell, lower-right; beyond, she did a fine job of capturing Cìr Mhòr,
Caisteal Abhail and the spell-binding Witch’s Step!)

Looking back along ‘The Stacach’ to Goatfell (May 2019)

The next confirmed sighting of Laurie is close to 10pm that evening. Just down off the hill, he turns up for ‘last orders’ at the Corrie Hotel, where he chats with local campers. Aside from failing to mention his missing companion, he doesn’t appear to behave suspiciously - and strangely, given later accusations, there is no sign of blood on his person or attire.

Suitably refreshed, Laurie leaves on foot for a late night trek back to Brodick. He departs his lodgings early the following morning, without settling his bill. He is seen on the Arran ferry with two bags, presumed to be his own (the one stolen earlier) and Ned’s. Initially returning to Glasgow, Laurie then resumes his holiday in Rothesay - where, bizarrely, he is observed wearing his absent friend’s tennis suit and yachting cap.

Upper Glen Sannox from just below North Goatfell (May 2019)

Ned’s disappearance at first goes unnoticed - however, being from a close family of seven siblings, this won’t be the case for long. Three days after his ill-fated climb, he is due to meet one of his brothers at a London train station. When he fails to arrive, frantic enquiries are made. It is quickly established that Ned has not been seen since attempting Goatfell with a man named Annandale - who did return, only to flee his lodgings. The Rose clan, with Arran police, rally over 200 volunteers for a painstaking search of the Goatfell range.

The initial searches draw a blank - there’s a lot of ground to cover, much of it treacherous - but on the afternoon of Sunday 4th August, almost three weeks since Ned went missing, a gruesome discovery is made.

Ned’s Last View? - The top of Rose and Laurie’s ill-fated descent route into Coire nam Fuaran (May 2019)

Ned’s body is found beneath a large boulder in Coire nam Fuaran, on a secluded cross-country descent route between North Goatfell and Glen Sannox. Some of his possessions, including a walking stick and torn waterproof, are strewn across the steeper slopes above. This is hazardous terrain, a landscape of gullies and granite slabs. Two mini-cliffs of 19 feet and 32 feet provide ample opportunity for a fatal fall.

And a fall may well have been the cause of death, for Ned clearly has non-survivable head injuries. As well as suffering multiple skull fractures, his face is barely recognisable. A later post-mortem at the Corrie Hotel coach-house will identify several displaced vertebrae, a dislocated shoulder, broken ribs and a buttock wound (all on the body’s left-hand side).

Granite slabs in the vicinity of Ned’s suspected fall.
This particular line marks the steep scramble from North Goatfell down to its North-West Ridge; a route which I took in 2019, but Rose and Laurie avoided back in 1889.

This would usually be put down to a simple mountaineering accident, albeit an especially horrific one for poor Ned and his family.

And yet… there is clearly more to it than this. Upon discovery, it immediately becomes apparent that Ned’s remains have not come to rest naturally beneath the boulder. He has been secreted here, and a deliberate attempt has been made to conceal the corpse. The entrance to the hidey-hole - known to hill-folk as a howff - is blocked by stones, leaving just a protruding arm. Some of the stones are actually on top of the body, as though crudely and coldly burying it. Rather than visual confirmation, it is the unfortunate odour of decomposition which gives the game away to the Corrie fisherman who is first on the scene.

Furthermore, Ned’s pockets have been turned out. It seems that he has been robbed, most likely posthumously. He is known to have carried a gold watch and chain, for example, which is conspicuous by its absence.

Perhaps influenced by this litany of suspicious evidence, the doctors who examine Ned’s body conclude that his head injuries are the result of repeated blows from a heavy instrument, such as a rock. Other medical experts disagree, pronouncing the trauma consistent with a serious fall. But even if the latter is true: did he fall, or was he pushed?

We may never know the answer to this. We do know, however, that Laurie’s behaviour in the aftermath of the incident continues to elicit suspicion (to put it mildly). Upon learning that a search is underway for a missing English tourist on Goatfell, Laurie immediately quits his job and goes on the run. Leaving Glasgow - and his nearby home town of Coatbridge - he remains a fugitive for a number of weeks, travelling throughout the UK and Ireland. Laurie knows the game is up when police discover that he is synonymous with the mysterious Annandale. Despite this, while evading the law, he protests his innocence in letters to the press.

The hunt for Laurie garners national interest, for a while usurping even Jack the Ripper on the front pages. Laurie is finally captured in Lanarkshire on 3rd September (1889). Upon being cornered by police, he unsuccessfully attempts suicide with a razorblade. He also exclaims what might possibly be a summary of the entire case: “I robbed the man but I did not murder him!”

The Scottish court disagrees, though Laurie’s murder conviction is by the slimmest of margins (8 Guilty verdicts against 7 Not Proven). He is initially sentenced to hang, though this is commuted to life imprisonment on grounds akin to insanity. By the time he dies in 1930, still incarcerated at the grand old age of 69, Laurie has become Scotland’s longest-serving prisoner.

The Goatfell Range’s western flank, from the slopes of Cìr Mhòr (May 2017).
Rose and Laurie reach Goatfell summit from the far (east) side, then roughly follow the skyline to the X. From here, they descend steeply toward Coire nam Fuaran. Perhaps passing behind the summit tor of North Goatfell, they miss the usual descent route to Glen Sannox via the North-West Ridge and The Saddle.
The red F marks the location of Ned’s suspected fall; his body is later found beneath a boulder at B.

Challenging terrain around the head of Coire nam Fuaran, seen here in May 2017. The prominent high point at upper right is now known as North Goatfell, though it’s an unnamed granite tor when Rose and Laurie visit this rocky arena back in July 1889. This anonymity, combined with lateness in the day or deteriorating weather, perhaps reduces their desire to reach its true top. As a consequence, by design or otherwise, they miss the established North-West Ridge (foreground), instead tackling steep craggy slopes at background left.

A Scene of ‘Savage Grandeur’ - A Closer View of the Mullach Buidhe/North Goatfell Skyline (May 2019).
X marks the start of Rose and Laurie’s fateful descent; the red F marks the location of Ned’s suspected fall, his body being concealed beneath a boulder at B.

The Mountains of Arran from the upper slopes of Caisteal Abhail (Sept 2020).
The small red x marks the steepening terrain on Rose and Laurie’s descent route from the skyline notch above;
the incident is focused just below this, with Rose’s boulder situated midway between the x and the ‘Coire nam Fuaran’ label.

Given his lifetime in jail, and with his status as a murderer open to doubt, John Laurie may himself be an unwitting victim of this whole tragic affair. (Strangely, he is never tried for the lesser offence of theft, which seems more of an open-and-shut case.) Yet what of the story’s more obvious victim, the hapless Edwin Rose? Well, in life, Ned never did achieve his goal of treading the celebrated Glen Sannox, but his mortal remains were carried down this way… as though completing his journey, both literally and metaphorically, through a hallowed portal.

After the post-mortem at the Corrie Hotel - ironically, the same establishment that Laurie had reached for post-walk refreshment (or to establish an alibi?) - Ned was laid to rest at Sannox Cemetery. Services were held at both Corrie and Sannox, attended by his brother Benjamin (who had been active in the search). A large number of local people also paid their respects. For better or worse, Ned couldn’t have remained any closer to the scene of the incident which had sadly ended his life.

The retrospective view which Ned never saw…
The North Goatfell skyline from the depths of Glen Sannox (May 2019)

Coire nam Fuaran (May 2019)…
Ned’s bouldery ‘howff’ is marked with a B

Before I come full circle and pay my own respects, I’d like to highlight a couple of quirks associated with the posthumous ‘top and tail’ of Ned’s hill-walking attire. The ‘top’ is his tweed cap, which is one of the items found strewn across the steep ground above Ned’s grisly boulder. Given the presumed sequence of events, its location is no particular surprise. The surprise, however, is that the cap wasn’t merely ‘strewn’ (as though from a fall). It was folded neatly in four, weighed down by a stone, and left at the foot of what would later be called the ‘19-foot drop’.

Such deliberate placement clearly doesn’t fit with the ‘random fall’ theory, nor with the scenario of a robber (potentially murderer) clearing up the scene of a crime. So what had happened here?

Alas, we can only really speculate. Maybe Ned had rested in the lee of the crag, donning a waterproof (say), and pinned down his cap to prevent it blowing away. Or maybe Laurie (or someone else?), tidying the scene after the incident, found the cap and stashed it to pick up later (after concealing Ned’s body). Perhaps it had even been positioned to mark the best line of ascent, which could be relevant in fading light if a fleeing perpetrator intended to re-attain the skyline before descending on the far side of the ridge via the established Corrie path. (This route is arguably Laurie’s best means of reaching the Corrie Hotel for 10pm.)

Or… maybe the ‘19-foot drop’ is indeed the scene of Ned’s fatal fall, and the cap was left behind as a kind of makeshift shrine. If so, it’s intriguing to consider that the incredibly callous act of plundering Ned’s pockets and hiding his body might have been offset by just a shred of humanity. Or maybe that’s naïve wishful thinking on my part?

Gathering Storm, Glen Sannox
(Sept 2022)

At the risk of sounding flippant, the other attire-related anomaly is a little more humorous (at least with the passage of time). It concerns Ned’s boots, which were removed prior to the funeral and buried beneath the waterline of a local beach. This was the handiwork of an Arran police constable, who evidently subscribed to the superstition that removing and burying a murdered person’s boots prevents their restless spirit from roaming the locale.

Unfortunately, in saving Ned from his fate of forever haunting the neighbourhood, the police had inadvertently disposed of key evidence. Forensic science was in its infancy at this point, yet it quickly transpired that analysis of the boot nails may have helped to establish whether a fatal slip had occurred on the Goatfell granite.

In more senses than one, this must truly have been a ‘sole-destroying’ experience! ;-)

Coming ‘Full Circle’…
Sea of Holes, Corrie Foreshore (Sept 2021)

So now I think I have come full circle, and can return to the sanctuary of Sannox Cemetery. Hopefully the above background details help to explain why, after so many years, the contemplative act of visiting Ned Rose’s grave can be so moving. And as I write this, on 15th July, I’m conscious of the extra poignancy brought about by the anniversary of Ned’s death. 1889 to 2023. 134 years. Blimey - how time moves on! (So much changes, and yet so little…)

I actually thought Ned’s grave might be hard to find, but it’s not far from the cemetery gates. It’s also highly distinctive, on account of the hefty granite boulder which was heaved down from Glen Sannox on the first anniversary of his burial. Given that poor Ned was originally deposited beneath a similar (larger) boulder, it could be argued that this unsubtle adornment is in dubious taste. Still, it aligned with the wishes of his family, and does forever link him to the wild landscape which he so wanted to explore.

The location is a suitably tranquil one, and beautiful too. But the thing which most struck me was the abundance of coins, trinkets and flowers which, even now, are left as offerings atop Ned’s final resting place. Arran is first and foremost a peaceful place, and the violent death of a tourist must have sent shock waves through its close-knit island community. Perhaps because of this - and no doubt due to the strange nature of his demise - Ned has never been forgotten. His grave serves as an eternal shrine.

Like the mystery of his death, the memory of Edwin R Rose lives on.

Sannox Cemetery and Ned’s Grave (visited in May 2023),
with Cioch na h’Oighe (Goatfell Range) looming beyond

Final Resting Place…
The Grave of Edwin R Rose
(Sannox Cemetery, May 2023)

Summer Staycation (Devon, July/August 2023)

You may have noticed by now that a pattern is developing for 2023, in which almost all of my new photography is conducted on holiday. I suppose that’s hardly surprising, given that holidays in general are famously snap-happy. However, I do feel a little guilty at neglecting my local neighbourhood, especially after espousing the delights of home photography during lockdown and beyond.

For the record, I stand by my earlier promotion of home photography. Yet there’s also no denying that, after returning from Arran in late May, I would unfortunately enter a dearth of creativity for much of the summer.

I could list various reasons for this - work hassles, family life, wet weather, website tinkering; even a tantalising wait (so far in vain) for a carbon-fibre tripod - but the fact is, they all sound a little like excuses. I really should do better at simply getting out there with a camera and enjoying myself; in short, seeking out new images instead of over-analysing old ones.

Having said all of that, I do find that a conscious rationing of photography helps to sharpen the appetite. So let’s go with that, and look forward with excitement to the Western Highlands in September (though without any undue pressure, of course!).

But returning for a moment to my summer photography drought… this was, in fact, only broken in July, when Karen and I celebrated our 12th anniversary. I borrowed Karen’s wee Canon to mark the occasion with a couple of family shots in our back garden, which I later combined into a quick two-pic collage.

And yes, I hadn’t intended this website to double as a family photo album. But since this image garnered by far the most ‘likes’ of any pic I’ve ever posted to Facebook (clearly thanks to Karen and the doggies, not the photographer!), it serves as a salutary reminder that personal stories quite rightly trump my pretensions of anything more artistic.

Either that, or a lot of people online were laughing pretty hard at my hapless attempt to carry off an Indiana Jones hat! :-0

Raiders of the Lost Bark - Celebrating our 12th anniversary (July 2023)…
and yes, we’d marked the occasion by watching ‘Indiana Jones’!

Family revelry aside, my only actual ‘photoshoot’ of the summer would have to await the second half of August. For some weeks prior to this, time and conditions permitting, I’d intended to venture out to my local river in search of dragonflies or other wee beasties. A wet and often stormy July had come and gone, and parts of early August were similarly discouraging. Yet eventual sunny spells - and a rare, spare late afternoon - did at last lure me out to the local Devon countryside, camera and macro lens at the ready…

Log Life (Aug 2023)
Culm Vale Fly (Hand-Jive)

In the event it was still too windy to harbour much in the way of flying insects, and any riverside flowers (which so often serve as ornate landing pads) were being whipped around mercilessly. I wandered about aimlessly, almost returning empty handed. Yet at such times, when compositions seem to dry up, it can be good to simply stand still and observe - to let the images come to you, rather than the other way around. So, before heading back, I waited beside a bare log to see whether anything would appear.

And after a while, my eyes - and lens - adjusted in scale to pick out a couple of tiny flies and grasshoppers.

Not exactly the Serengeti, but it would have to do! :-)

Captain’s Log (Aug 2023)
Culm Vale Grasshopper

Jitter-Bug

Dragon’s Den
(Nice Camouflage!)

Ready to Hop

Touchdown!
(First Fly on the Moon?)

The Magic of Moidart (Western Highlands, September 2023)

I’ve titled this chapter The Magic of Moidart because that’s where we were based - a remote part of Moidart, in the magical Western Highlands of Scotland.

Our home for the fortnight was a cottage called Scarduish, which nestled idyllically between craggy wooded hills and a scenic sea loch. Just around the corner was a ruined castle on a tidal islet, while eagles soared overhead and a herd of red deer would visit our garden at night (much to the astonishment of our doggies!).

Before I wax too poetic, I should concede that our idyll was a tad isolated for your typical family holiday - yet there’s also no denying that it was a landscape photographer’s dream!

On Patrol
(Rocky and Moo at Scarduish)

Surrounded by all this beauty, local images of Moidart do indeed feature prominently in the selection below. However, it’s not all about Moidart - we would also venture north to Morar, east to Ardgour, south to Ardnamurchan, and even west to the enigmatic Isle of Eigg.

In theory, the photos should speak for themselves - but for those who like to know more, hopefully my comments and captions will fill in most of the gaps.

As for the Magic part of the title… well, the location may have been remote, but it was certainly magical being there. I’ll be content if just a small part of this magic (“not a lot!”) is conveyed on camera! :-)

The Scott-Mann Clan - A Jacobite Journal of Family and Friends

This section comprises a mini ‘family gallery’ of our stay in Bonnie Prince Charlie’s Jacobite country, featuring those all-important people shots - some snapped on local strolls, others from wider-ranging day-trips - which invariably add heart and soul to the bare bones* of our holiday experience. *(Upon re-reading, I may have overdone the Jacobite references and body-part metaphors!)

And when I say ‘people shots’, it’s only right and proper that doggies should be included as well - after all, our canine companions (Moogie and Rocky) do tend to place themselves above yours truly in the family packing order! :-0

It’s also worth noting that some of my favourite locations of the holiday - for example, Ardnamurchan Point, Sanna Bay, and the Silver Sands of Morar - were only visited in the context of daytime family excursions, when I wasn’t conducting my own photography. I’m therefore grateful to Karen (my long-suffering better half), plus our venerable holiday guests (Loraine and Melissa), for taking some meaningful and inspired shots. A heartfelt thank you to all, both for the pictures themselves and of course for the wonderful memories which they encapsulate and enhance! :-)

As a quick technical note, almost all of the images in this section (except for the occasional mobile phone foray) were shot using Karen’s wee Canon on auto mode (effectively employing a ‘point and shoot’ approach). This generates JPEG files, to which I later applied basic post-processing using Picasa (instead of Lightroom, which I use when shooting in RAW with my Fuji).

Although I was supposed to be acting under photographic curfew outside of my sanctioned ‘photoshoots’, I must admit that I did sometimes ‘borrow’ Karen’s wee camera myself (with permission, naturally!). Where not taken by me, the images presented below will be credited to the appropriate photographer (again, with thanks!)…

‘Photo-bombed’ by Rocky;
Sanna Bay, Ardnamurchan
(Photo by Karen Scott)

Our Front Garden, Scarduish… I don’t know if that’s a ‘deer fence’, but it can’t have been cheap! :-)
(Photo by Karen Scott)

Wildlife in the Raw(?!), Scarduish
(Photo by Karen Scott)

The current family section is mostly presented in chronological order… and while it kicks off in the vicinity of Scarduish and Loch Moidart (as might be expected), we gradually moved further afield to explore the sandy beaches of Ardtoe and Sanna Bay.

We were blessed with some warm and sunny weather in this early part of the holiday, even when visiting the exposed headland of Ardnamurchan Point - the most westerly spike of ground in mainland Britain. I never did manage to return to this magical place with my own camera (it’s so remote!), but I’m glad to share a couple of Karen’s fine lighthouse shots…

A ‘Benchmark’ of Advanced Training,
Ariundle Oakwoods (Strontian)
(Photo by Karen Scott)

As well as heralding a changeover of guests, our middle weekend unusually found us heading inland, to the ancient oakwoods which back the Highland village of Strontian. (It’s not really inland though, as Strontian nestles beside the long arm of a sea loch, the beautifully-named Loch Sunart.)

This should have been a leisurely circular stroll along a woodland path, yet it ended in adventure (of sorts) when our return route led us to a lengthy ford across the River Strontian. Karen had donned wellington boots, so was well placed to paddle across with Moo - yet I was not so sensibly attired, on top of which Rocky refuses point blank to dip his delicate wee paws into anything deeper than around 2mm.

A sad but comedic episode ensued, in which I hoicked up poor Rocky and inched across the river barefoot (like in Die Hard), discovering as I did so that the submerged pebbles were both sharper and more slippery than anticipated. We just about made it over intact, though I was pleased that nobody was around to witness my foolish antics - except for Karen, who deigned to photograph the scene for posterity!

I think there may have been some divine justice at work here, repaying me for inwardly judging a tourist who’d become stranded on Eilean Tioram and splashed through one of my compositions earlier in the holiday (of which more later!)… :-0

Water Babies…
Wading the Strontian River
(Photo by Karen Scott)

Sundown on Scarduish
(Photo by Karen Scott)

So there we have it… a whistle-stop tour of our holiday, as told through the all-seeing lens of an ad-hoc family album.

I’ll now rewind slightly and re-play events via my Fuji X-T3 photoshoots, which in theory at least are a little more ‘organised’ in nature (though I use the word loosely!).

As an aside, some of the Fuji images which follow are still of a documentary nature, and indeed you might spot a handful of ‘people’ shots sprinkled amongst the scenery. Portraits amongst the landscapes, as it were!

Some of my photoshoot vistas - especially those around Scarduish and Loch Moidart - may also be familiar from the family album, so please remember to act surprised if anything seems a bit ‘old hat’. Rest assured that newer material, from fresh venues, will remain within scrolling range!

Oh, and I’ll add a few words along the way, in the hope that the stories behind the images might give a broader context to their creation. Perhaps these explanations will even raise the odd smile, though probably not where intended (that’s all part of the fun)! ;-)

Home Turf - The Castle, The Clown and The Ghost Town

A modest helping of Home Turf (meaning pictures of our Moidart holiday locale) is featured in the ‘family album’ compilation above. For this particular section, my intent is to expand this selection by focusing on photos taken around Loch Moidart and Scarduish (our holiday cottage) using my Fuji X-T3.

The choice of camera doesn’t matter, of course - it’s ultimately just a tool - but more significantly, use of my Fuji usually signifies a change of mindset to one in which I think less in terms of casual holiday snaps and more in terms of planned ‘photoshoots’.

Describing it in this way does seem a little grandiose (even to me!), so I should emphasise that the resulting images are not necessarily better or more interesting. It just means that I consciously slow down and choose my compositions more carefully, generally showcasing landscapes (or seascapes) which really grab my attention. I might also venture out at favoured times of day such as ‘golden hour’ (sunrise or sunset), and will typically expand my technical options by carrying extra gear such as lenses, filters and a tripod.

Ironically, the reason I’m reiterating my usual method of conducting ‘photoshoots’ is because, for this Scotland trip, I fairly frequently bucked the trend and used my Fuji for on-the-move, documentary-style photography.

Loch Moidart
(Above Scarduish, Day1)

In particular, a few of my lengthier excursions - ascents of the Sgùrr of Eigg and Ben Hiant, for example, plus a local circular jaunt in which Mel and I stumbled across the abandoned village of Port a' Bhàta - were basically walks with a camera in tow, as opposed to planned shoots which involved walking.

And actually, some of our jaunts involved not only walking but wading, as illustrated here by Mel (negotiating the rising tide while returning from a shrinking spit of land at Shielfoot!)…

Both methods of photography (i.e. planned photoshoots vs ad-hoc, documentary-style) are enjoyable, and each present their own challenges and rewards. In any case, for most of us, the process behind an image is irrelevant - the main thing is how the photo turns out, meaning the story that it tells and the emotion which it evokes. Ultimately, this has nothing to do with fancy gear. I wish I knew a magic formula, but I’m still working on that.

Perhaps the point is that no magic formula actually exists? :-)

Tidal Grazing, Loch Moidart
(Sgùrr of Eigg beyond)

The Lone Pine
(Viewed from Scarduish)

The Cottage (“Scarduish, Scaramouche, Will you do the Fandango?”)

Before explaining the Castle and Clown of my title, I should again acknowledge the place which put the Home into Home Turf: our holiday cottage.

I needn’t say too much more about Scarduish, our cosy hideaway overlooking Loch Moidart - except to affirm that, if you like remoteness and breathtaking scenery, it was the most dramatically-situated property I’ve ever stayed in!

All of the pictures from the mini-section below are either of Scarduish, or they were taken from its well-manicured garden… whose views included sunsets, red deer and occasional passing eagles (both white-tailed and golden).

Talking of deer and eagles, this holiday emphasised to me that I only really dabble in wildlife photography - it is landscapes and wilderness which have truly inspired me since childhood, and which occasionally motivate me to roll out of bed at some ungodly hour. Much as I love animals, I feel that others are better qualified to rustle up the magic in this area. Nonetheless, the Scottish Highlands boast an impressive array of wildlife, and there is something undeniably stirring - exciting, even - about a close encounter with a roaming deer or a soaring bird of prey. I was pleased to balance this holiday collection by capturing both on camera (however briefly and modestly) from the fertile stomping-grounds of Scarduish.

The classic view of Loch Moidart from Scarduish became familiar in many different guises during our stay, culminating in a fantastically vivid sunset on our final evening (when I really should have been packing instead of rushing outside with my camera!).

It is, of course, nigh on impossible to capture an unbelievable sunset without the resulting image looking over-processed - if I’m guilty of that here (which may well be the case), I’ve at least tried to balance the saturated colours with some less psychedelic experimentation in moody monochrome! ;-)

The Castle and The Clown (Eilean Tioram and The Stranded Tourist)

The most celebrated feature in the vicinity of our secluded Highland hideaway - I’d almost go so far as to call it a tourist attraction - is undoubtedly Castle Tioram (Cheerum), whose ruined ramparts adorn a tidal islet in Loch Moidart.

Being an obvious subject for landscape photography, our first vibrant sunset found me wandering down to the castle and setting up my tripod on the sandy shore. The tide was high, so I moved as close as I could to the flooded causeway and dialled in a long exposure, hoping to smooth the water and bring out the sky’s orange glow. I completed framing my composition, admired the peaceful solitude, and prepared to release the shutter.

It was as tranquil a scene as I could imagine - until, from somewhere in the gloaming, I heard an exasperated shout and a stomping of feet. A man appeared across the water on Eilean Tioram, evidently having visited the castle and been cut off by the rising tide. He then proceeded to strip off and splash noisily through my composition, cursing loudly until he spotted me and pretended that everything was under control. We said a muted “Hello” to each other as he waded onto the beach and scurried off, dripping, into the twilight.

Anyway, the clown* didn’t drown, the water settled, and I belatedly fired off a couple of shots. What better way to spend an evening? :-)

Castle Tioram
(Beware the High Tide!)

*I should clarify that my use of the word ‘clown’ isn’t meant to be offensive, either to the man in question or indeed to clowns - it just happens to rhyme with ‘drown’ and ‘Ghost Town’. Anyway, we’ve all been there… before the holiday was out, I’d find myself stranded on the wrong side of a cold watery channel on at least two occasions. It’s an occupational hazard of being a curious tourist! :-0

Castle Tioram at Sunset
(Loch Moidart)

My three remaining images of Castle Tioram were captured later in the holiday, while on daytime explorations around Loch Moidart with Mel. These are handheld shots, still with my Fuji but taken on the move… and without any stranded tourists attempting to photo-bomb the foreground!

A few other views of the castle - which is understandably ubiquitous around these parts - can be seen in the above ‘family album’ section (with thanks to Karen).

The Ghost Town (a.k.a. The Abandoned Village of Port a' Bhàta)

Mel amongst the Heathery Hills of Moidart
(Looking back toward Loch na Fola and Loch Blain)

The last of my Home Turf sub-sections comprises some shots from a local circular walk undertaken with Mel.

We were basically just following our noses, heading up into the low bobbly hills which form such a picturesque backdrop to Scarduish. Upon reaching a couple of lochans we decided to curve round and descend toward the inner part of Loch Moidart, returning via a rocky shoreline trail known as The Silver Walk.

In so doing, we stumbled across an abandoned village known as Port a' Bhàta, beautifully (if unsustainably) situated on the rough-hewn hillside.

Reaching Port a' Bhàta (Mel gives scale alongside the ruin)

Inner Loch Moidart
(Taking the High Road)

I must admit that visiting the abandoned village was a strangely moving experience - it affected me more than nearby Castle Tioram, whose decaying shell is somehow familiar and perhaps even romantic. By contrast, the tumbledown houses of Port a' Bhàta seemed to reverberate with the echoes of long-gone families, ordinary people struggling to scrape a living from this beautiful yet harsh landscape. These humble dwellings are now being reclaimed by nature, their former living spaces sprouting trees and forming a stark illustration that - as the late George Harrison once reminded us - All Things Must Pass

There is also a historical reason for this place being so powerfully poignant. The part of Loch Moidart which Port a' Bhàta overlooks marks the landfall of Prince Charles Edward Stuart (Bonnie Prince Charlie), and his ‘Seven Men of Moidart’, at the start of the 1745 Jacobite Rebellion. I can almost imagine the villagers - if not here then at numerous neighbouring settlements - watching with hope or trepidation as Charlie’s boat came in and his campaign gained momentum within the clans.

The tragedy, of course, is that after defeat at Culloden the following year, the brutal Highland Clearances would lead to many scenes of devastation and decay across small crofting communities akin to Port a' Bhàta. The traditional Highland way of life would change forever.

If anyone is interested in the history of Port a' Bhàta itself, an impressive amount of detail - including census records of inhabitants through the 1800s - can be found by googling the name of the village and loading a webpage hosted by the Moidart Local History Group. (I have no affiliation to this group, so can’t vouch for the accuracy or security of the site. I haven’t posted a link because my browser flags it as being insecure - though the content does look informative and comprehensive!)

Vibe of ‘45 - The Jacobite Landing Site, Inner Loch Moidart
(Landing Place of Bonnie Prince Charlie and his 'Seven Men of Moidart', Summer 1745)

Moidart Mornings - A Time of Misty-Eyed Reflection

Cloudy with a Chance of Inversions…?

My pictorial theme of morning mist and/or reflections begins around dawn on the second full day of our holiday, when to be honest I was hoping for a bit of a lie-in. I was still recovering from the 600-mile drive from Devon to Moidart two days earlier, and the night before I’d been out with my camera for sunset (see Castle Tioram and the ‘stranded tourist’ incident, above). But with such a stupendous view of Loch Moidart right outside our bedroom window, I peeped through the curtains upon waking, just to make sure I wasn’t missing anything. And I wasn’t: outside was a thick fog. With relief, I slid back beneath the covers and closed my eyes.

Then something struck me: the forecast had been for fine weather, with reasonably clear skies and high pressure over the west of Scotland. This was no bank of drizzle or a pervasive pea-souper. It just might be a cloud inversion, caused by a layer of cold overnight air trapped close to the ground (and sea). If so, and if I could rise above it by climbing into the craggy hills just behind our cottage, then maybe - just maybe - I’d find a spectacular view?

But time was of the essence, so I sprung out of bed (which for me is a very rare occurrence), grabbed my camera and tripod, and set off up the hill as fast as my tired limbs would allow!

The previous day I’d scrambled a little way up these slopes on a sketchy cross-country line, but this morning I’d need to climb higher in order to break through the fog. A more established route would presumably allow for quicker progress, so I followed a path which wound its way up a ravine between trees and crags. Unexpectedly, I reached a small dam holding back a lochan. This was evidently a reservoir for our cottage down below (or used to be), which makes it the most beautiful water tank I’ve ever seen! The fog was now clearing to a wispy mist, revealing a tiny tree-lined island with hillocks emerging beyond. The most prominent hillock seemed to channel the first rays of an unseen sun.

This wasn’t what I’d come for - I’d need to clamber higher to view the potential cloud inversion - yet it definitely warranted a shot. I set up my tripod in the lochan itself, glad that I’d pulled on wellington boots, and captured my first image of the morning…

First Light, Scarduish Lochan
(The Blue Lagoon - Deepest Moidart)

So far, so good… yet my path into the hills had taken me away from the coast. If I wanted to look out over the sea (hoping for a sea of cloud), I’d need to revert to a cross-country approach, climbing not only upward but also doubling back toward Loch Moidart. So I struck up through steep grass and dewy bracken (the ferns parted using my tripod, though still soaking my trousers!), working my way around rocky outcrops and at one point inadvertently scattering a herd of red deer (which bolted before I could photograph them!). As I ascended further the view opened out to the landward side, looking phenomenal in the mist - though the rising sun was clearly beginning to burn it off, adding to a sense of alacrity. At last I crested the seaward edge of the hill - which I’d later identify as Cruach nam Meann - and gazed out over Loch Moidart toward the distant islands of Eigg and Rùm. And there it was… a pristine sea of cloud, stretching to the horizon.

After years of mountain climbing, this was the most spectacular temperature inversion I’d ever seen. I suppose I should get up early more often! :-)

Beyond the Sky
(The Right Kind of Cloudy Morning - Looking across Loch Moidart to the Distant Islands of Eigg and Rùm)

Somewhere Over the Maelstrom
(Zooming in on Eigg and Rùm - A Good Combination for a Full Scottish Breakfast!)

Fallen Halo
(Surveying the Cloud Inversion - Loch Moidart from Cruach nam Meann)

A Biblical Dawn
(Misty Moidart - Burning off the Fog)

Down by the Riverside

For my next Moidart Morning, I need to fast-forward to the middle weekend of the holiday. This wasn’t a misty morning, though it was calm and therefore (I hoped) suitable for reflections.

My target was an area known as Fisherman’s Pool, situated on the short but scenic River Shiel which links Loch Shiel (a fine freshwater loch) to Loch Moidart (our local sea loch). The winding single-track road leading to our holiday cottage actually passed directly alongside this pool, so it was about time I stopped and photographed it!

In case anyone is keeping note (or checking ‘shooting’ permits), I’m still in Moidart for this shoot, though I believe the far bank of the river is technically Ardnamurchan! ;-)

The Fishing Pier
(River Shiel, Moidart - or is it Ardnamurchan?)

Morning Reflection
(Fisherman’s Pool, River Shiel)

Twisting by the Pool

Before moving on from the River Shiel, I was keen to photograph the ancient Old Shiel Bridge, a beautifully historic structure which thankfully remains the preserve of pedestrians, wildlife and occasional water sprites?

With conditions now a little greyer than I’d have liked, I decide to spice up this shoot by trying some ICM (i.e. Intentional Camera Movement). I was still using a tripod to ‘bake in’ the core of the image, but then rotating it right at the end of the exposure in search of something vaguely swirly or otherwise abstract.

A couple of ICM examples are presented below. These have been post-processed in Lightroom to adjust the contrast, etc. (my standard procedure when shooting in RAW format), though the effects (such as they are) were captured fully in-camera.

I know many folk are a little wary of abstracts (it’s the reason I can never again take my family to the Tate Modern!), so an equivalent ‘traditional’ shot of the bridge is shown first for posterity (and perhaps for safety).

The traditional shot is OK, I suppose, though I did warn you that the light wasn’t great! :-(

Old Shiel Bridge, River Shiel
(Non-Abstract!)

Loch Shiel (From Dawn Mist to ‘Bonnie Prints’ Charlie)

We’re now in the second week of our Moidart trip, and my final ‘early morning’ photographic excursion.

Actually, this one nearly didn’t happen at all - at least, not in the guise presented below. Upon setting my alarm and driving away from Scarduish, I was headed resolutely toward Ardgour, where I’d planned to explore a glen beneath the great rocky ramparts of Garbh Bheinn. I’d climbed this ‘Rough Mountain’ with my Dad eons ago - I didn’t know how long, maybe a couple of decades - and had a nostalgic notion to re-visit its lower reaches with camera in hand.

Yet I’d barely begun the drive when I sensed that this wasn’t the time for Garbh Bheinn. Approaching our nearby village of Acharacle, I could see that a veil of mist enclosed the southern end of Loch Shiel, with the sun destined to rise over the mountains beyond. I knew that a short track would lead me down to the loch’s shore, where we’d viewed a spectacular sunset upon leaving the pub the night before. On that occasion, Karen and Mel had done the photographic honours - maybe this was my chance to capture the sun’s reappearance from the very same spot?

Besides, I reasoned, the glen beneath Garbh Bheinn would surely remain in shadow for most of the morning? Or maybe it wasn’t reason which governed my choice of venue, but something more visceral? Either way, some form of providence told me that I should keep Ardgour, and its wistful store of memories, for another day.

So I chose the track at Acharacle, standing my tripod on the jetty just as an eastern orange glow heralded the sunrise. I was later to name my first image of this shoot Dawn Mist, before realising I’d made it sound a bit like an air freshener or a shade of paint. But if you’re pretentious enough to give your image a name, this is surely one of the pitfalls. Next time I’ll call it Arthur, and just move on.

Anyway, whatever you call it, this is the pre-dawn scene that morning on the south-western shore of Loch Shiel…

Dawn Mist
(Loch Shiel, Acharacle)

My next shot reveals the same view ten minutes later, when the sun had actually cleared the horizon. And somewhere beneath that rising sun, miles away at the famous end of Loch Shiel, sits Glenfinnan.

Although better known in some circles for its viaduct (revered both by railway buffs and Harry Potter fans), Glenfinnan’s original claim to fame was as the place where Prince Charles Edward Stuart - The Young Pretender - rallied his troops and ‘raised his standard’ to kick-start the Jacobite Rebellion of 1745. I used to think that raising his standard meant upping his game, but apparently it simply refers to the hoisting of a flag up a pole. Either way, I imagine the grandeur of the scenery played a part in the choice of location, the vista of Loch Shiel and its surrounding hills being transferred to countless chocolate boxes and shortbread tins over the ensuing years. Perhaps that’s why the Young Pretender is more widely known today as ‘Bonnie Prints’ Charlie? :-)

Loch Shiel Sunrise
(Tranquil Acharacle)

Smoke on the Water
(Morning Mist, Loch Shiel)

As the sun climbed higher and the dawn mist dispersed, I captured just a few more images from the jetty before leaving Acharacle and heading ever so slightly north toward the foothills of Glen Moidart. In the mini-gallery below, my change of scene took place between the two hastily-snapped cobwebs (which surely deserved, though didn’t quite get, the proper ‘macro’ treatment!).

While the new location clearly had potential, the best of the morning had passed. And that’s fine… Scarduish beckoned, and I was ready for breakfast and another hard day of holiday-making! :-)

Scrambling on Eigg - Big Views in The Small Isles

I wish I could claim that visiting the enigmatic Isle of Eigg, and ascending its remarkable Sgùrr, had been a lifetime’s ambition. Being a long-time lover of Scotland’s Highlands and Islands, it really should have been. But the truth is, it had never actually occurred to me that I’d get the opportunity. It was only when Karen gently nudged me in this direction - suggesting a day-trip on my behalf - that the excitement began to build. And if I’d never previously dreamt of this adventure, I suppose you could say it fulfilled the cliché of being beyond my wildest dreams!

To add some context: the Sgùrr of Eigg (more properly known as An Sgùrr) is not particularly high by Highland standards, clocking in at just under 1,300 feet. Yet viewed from certain angles, it’s surely the most spectacular chunk of rock anywhere in the British Isles. Its volcanic ramparts look impregnable from end on, almost otherworldly, and indeed I sometimes think of it as Scotland’s answer to the Devil’s Tower (of Close Encounters fame).

The timings of the boat trip (from Arisaig) left just enough time to ascend the Sgùrr and return for the voyage home - provided, that is, I travelled light and didn’t faff too much with camera gear. Missing the boat would certainly result in an Eigg-on-face moment! So I effectively faced a dilemma: should I prioritise a nice steady ‘photoshoot’, seeking a perfect angle of An Sgùrr from the safety of the shore… or risk the ascent and revert to a rapid, documentary style of photography? In the end, it had to be the latter: the Lure of the Sgùrr was just too great! ;-)

A Heathery Cairn
(En route to the Ethereal Sgùrr of Eigg)

SPOILER ALERT for Close Encounters of the Third Kind (1977)...

As mentioned above: if Close Encounters had been set in Scotland, Spielberg would surely have chosen An Sgùrr (on the enigmatic Isle of Eigg) as the movie’s otherworldly UFO landing site. Maybe this explains my strange obsession with it? Sadly I didn't encounter any little grey aliens on the summit, probably because Richard Dreyfuss had hogged the last spot on their mothership! :-0

The Incomparable Sgùrr of Eigg

Pitchstone Pavement, Sgùrr of Eigg
(5-pic panorama; Muck and Rùm beyond)

Highland Highs and Lows - From The Holy Hill to The Monster's Lair

High on Ben Hiant (Ascent of The Holy Hill)

Just south of our Moidart holiday base lies the mysterious Ardnamurchan peninsula. At least, it was mysterious to me, as I’d never previously been there. And more to the point, I was intrigued by its reputation for both ruggedness and remoteness (much like myself!).

When I say remoteness, I’m not just paying lip service. Ardnamurchan does, in fact, extend further west than any other place on the British mainland, and can only be accessed via a winding single-track road (unless you happen to have a boat). Some might say there’s not much there, though in my book there are attractions galore: a natural history centre and distillery; a castle and iconic lighthouse; Highland wildlife, sandy beaches, even the collapsed caldera of an ancient super-volcano!

And then there’s Ben Hiant. Rising above the fjord-like Loch Sunart, this is a little gem of a peak whose character is summed up by its name: Holy Hill.*

*(I may have implied to Karen that Ben Hiant was so called because a rare breed of High Ant had been discovered on its summit - for this, I can only apologise!) ;-0

Now Ben Hiant may be modest in stature - at just over 1,700 feet it’s more of a hill than a mountain - yet it dominates the peninsula and offers particularly fine views. I also found the hill itself to be very beautiful, with smooth green contours and an alluring hint of craggy steepness. In short, well worth climbing!

Atop Ben Hiant
(Gratuitous Summit Selfie!)

I set off early on the morning of my ascent, choosing to travel light: as with the Sgùrr of Eigg a couple of days previously, this would be a hill-walk first and photoshoot second. I did, however, switch from wide-angle to telephoto lens on the summit, the idea being to ‘reach in’ to the view and highlight anything of interest which might otherwise be lost to the background noise. This led to my favourite shot of the day, The Wild West, in which the hazy hills of Moidart form a backdrop to a lurking ‘rock monster’. This image concludes the Ben Hiant mini-selection presented below…

(Incidentally, no High Ants were detected in the vicinity of the summit!) ;-)

Loch Sunart awaits Sunrise
(From the slopes of Ben Hiant, Ardnamurchan Peninsula)

The Sky Boat Illusion
(Loch Sunart - Sea not Sky! - from High on Ben Hiant)

The Wild West
(From the Bare Bones of Ben Hiant to the Hazy Hills of Moidart)

Low in Loch Morar (A Rùm Do and ‘Deep’ Disappointment at The Monster’s Lair)

The second week of our holiday found us planning a boat trip to the magical Isle of Rùm, mirroring my earlier exploration of Eigg. And while Rùm doesn’t possess a feature quite as ethereal as the Sgùrr of Eigg (nowhere does!), the Cuillin of Rùm is a remarkably fine and compact mountain range, worthy of its better-known namesake the Cuillin of Skye. I knew there wouldn’t be time for actual mountain climbing on Rùm (this would require more than a mere day-trip!), yet the thought of getting up-close-and-personal with the island was undeniably exciting.

Admittedly there was some deliberation about logistics - a few should we, shouldn’t we-type conversations - and eyebrows were raised when the map revealed just how wild and desolate Rùm really is. But Karen was keen that Mel and I should see it, and kindly offered to undertake dog-sitting duties back at Scarduish.

Unfortunately, it wasn’t to be. Tickets were booked, but when Mel and I turned up at Mallaig to catch the boat, we were told that, yes, we could be taken to Rùm, but no, deteriorating weather conditions might prevent us from being brought back again. This was clearly a Rùm do!

A hastily convened conflab concluded that, while we weren’t too concerned about the choppy sea state, we were definitely scared of Karen’s reaction should we become stranded! :-0

A Grey Day
(Surveying Loch Morar)

Having travelled all the way to Mallaig, we decided to break our return journey at nearby Loch Morar. This holds the distinction of being the UK’s deepest body of fresh water, plummeting to gloomy depths of over 1,000 feet. It is also the lair of an alleged loch monster named Morag, an elusive and lesser-known cousin of Nessie (Loch Ness being the country’s second deepest).

Sadly the deteriorating weather must have grounded Morag too, for we didn’t spot her. In fact, striking as Loch Morar is, my pictures indicate that I didn’t spot much! Given the circumstances - the disappointment of Rùm and the pull to get home - it’s not surprising that I wasn’t overly inspired. I was pleased to visit though, and to plant both Morar and Rùm on my photographic bucket list!

River Morar Rapids
(A famously short river joining Loch Morar to the sea!)

"It Was Twenty Years Ago Today" - An Ardgour Anniversary

A Note on Photography - for this concluding section, the images from my final Scotland 2023 photoshoot are interspersed with much earlier imagery from an ascent of Garbh Bheinn in 2003. The archive pictures are a little rough and ready, having been snapped ‘on the move’ using an automatic film camera and much later scanned from old prints found in a family album. Nonetheless, they are of historic interest (to me, at least!), and hopefully help to convey my underlying story. The captions will clarify which shots were taken in 2003 and which in 2023, as well as crediting my Dad and alpine co-conspirator (Nigel Mann) with a few of the former.

A Note on Garbh Bheinn (the ‘Rough Mountain’) - Garbh Bheinn of Ardgour dominates an area of wilderness just west of Loch Linnhe, being seen to good effect when looking across the loch from the vicinity of Ballachulish. Just topping 2,900 feet in height, it falls marginally short of celebrated Munro status (which requires 3,000+ feet) and is instead classified as a Corbett. For this reason, and also because it is out-competed by more famous mountains on the accessible (east) side of Loch Linnhe, Garbh Bheinn sees far less footfall than it deserves. It is, however, widely regarded as one of the finest Corbetts in Scotland, its rough and rocky character attracting hill-folk who value quality or seclusion over popularity or extreme elevation.

I’ve written above that I’d intended to re-visit a mountain known as Garbh Bheinn of Ardgour for a nostalgic photoshoot, around two decades after climbing it on a hill-walking trip with my Dad. At least, my plan was to re-visit. In the event, nostalgia fell victim to pragmatism. Having set out early one morning for Garbh Bheinn, I’d made a spur-of-the-moment decision (which is unusual for me!) and ended up swapping the mists of time for the mists of Loch Shiel.

I hadn’t regretted this ad-hoc turnaround, as it had seemed right at the time - and besides, I’d witnessed a magical dawn across the misty loch. Yet as the end of our holiday drew ever nearer, it became evident that I’d probably missed my opportunity: Garbh Bheinn would have to await another year entirely, if indeed I ever returned to this beautiful but remote corner of the Highlands.

Salvation came after lunch at Scarduish on our concluding day, when we’d usually be squeezing the final ounce of value out of a family day-trip, or even starting the dreaded packing. Perhaps caught between these two stools, or maybe just wanting me out of the way for a while (hard to believe, but it has been known!), Karen suggested that I head out for one last hurrah with my camera.

Ascending Garbh Bheinn of Ardgour - a ‘High Lochan’, 2003
(Photo by Nigel Mann)

If I’m honest, the light wasn’t great for photography - the afternoon conditions were a little grey, lacking the colour and contrast which dedicated (i.e. obsessive) photographers often seek around dawn or dusk. But beggars can’t be choosers, and I knew without hesitation - despite having a few unfulfilled locations on my Western Highland bucket list - that Garbh Bheinn would exert an irresistibly magnetic pull.

So I jumped into the car and drove, this time motoring straight on through Acharacle with eyes only for Ardgour. (Actually, that’s not quite true… I did stop off to deposit some end-of-holiday empties at the village’s bottle recycling, but let’s not detract from the romance of my story!)

I should also make clear that I wouldn’t actually be climbing Garbh Bheinn on this occasion. That’s quite an undertaking (as my Dad and I discovered all those years ago!), so my return visit would be much more leisurely in nature. Instead, my aim was to wander into the glen at the base of the mountain - which constricts into a lovely corrie known as Coire an Iubhair - and to potter around its tumbling burn, seeking flowing compositions and generally spacing off!

A Previous Life - In Coire an Iubhair, 2003
(Photo by Nigel Mann)

My afternoon commute hugged the shore of Loch Sunart, skimmed Strontian and bisected Glen Tarbert. Parking up at last, I tried to recall landmarks from my previous visit roughly two decades earlier. Yes, I recognised the rocky lower slopes of Garbh Bheinn: this was certainly the right place. But while the scenery was as striking as I’d remembered, I must admit that the walk-in proved to be a little longer, flatter and muddier. In my mind, the gurgling mountain stream raced all the way down to the road… but in reality, I had to walk some distance into the hills before finding the type of terrain - the mini-waterfalls and clear pools - that I was after.

This was frustrating in that it constricted my time and rushed my photoshoot, yet it was also something of a blessing in disguise. The fact is, I was being drawn into scenery that I loved, immersing myself amongst the mountains and even feeling at home as rain began to patter down and midges came out to play.

I found myself smiling inwardly (maybe outwardly as well?) as I set up my tripod in and around the burn, scrabbling and wading around like I used to in childhood. As I did so, it dawned on me that splashing and ‘spuddling’ in mountain streams has always being one of my favourite pastimes. Thankfully, on this occasion there was nobody around to witness my shenanigans… and anyway, one of the joys of landscape photography is that it gives otherwise sensible adults permission to behave in this foolish yet liberating fashion!

Allt Coire an Iubhair, 2003
(The waterfall which inspired my return?)

Before I wax too poetic, I should concede that I didn’t end up with anything great… though I did quite like the moodiness of The Arched Tree*, perhaps because it was technically demanding to shoot. No matter; as with many photoshoots, the main aim is to come away with a rewarding experience, and to make some new memories along the way. And in this particular case, I had the added benefit of rekindling precious older memories to boot! :-)

*Incidentally, Coire an Iubhair means Corrie of the Yew… I’m not sure that the featured tree is actually a yew, though it would certainly be fitting if so?

Before making tracks and high-tailing it back to Scarduish, I wanted to capture one last shot which really summed up Coire an Iubhair. Ideally I’d have climbed higher up the corrie for this, where the mountain walls close in, the terrain steepens, and the waterfalls tumble over ever more precarious ledges. But I was already past my turnaround time, and the vista in front of me wasn’t too shabby. Even the gloomy sky seemed to fit the scene, the hazy cloud matching my hazy memories of two decades earlier. The tricky bit was balancing my tripod on a tilting rock and keeping drizzle off the lens filters. I’m not sure that the resulting image lives up to its billing as the Heart of the Corrie - but either way, I thought of it as a ‘parting shot’ to the holiday, both literally and metaphorically…

Heart of the Corrie
(A ‘Parting Shot’ of Allt Coire an Iubhair and Beinn Bheag, 2023)

For me, of course, this wasn’t just a pretty (or pretty cloudy) Highland scene. It was a scene of nostalgia for me and my Dad, made all the more wistful because our serious mountain-wandering days now seem to belong to another era. And that’s fine, we’re both embracing age-appropriate goals and the gradual change of priorities which life inevitably brings. Yet as I gazed further into that rocky corrie, the ramparts of Garbh Bheinn stretching up to the left, I could imagine the two of us excitedly breaking trail all those years ago, cracking silly jokes as we bobbed along.

The Happy Wanderer
(My father Nigel on Garbh Bheinn, 2003)

But let’s be honest… we weren’t only excited, or happy and carefree. We were probably stressed and nervous too, with me running late (as usual) and my Dad worrying that weather or terrain might put heed to his carefully crafted plans. We’d both be thrilled that this was Day1 of our long-awaited hill-walking holiday, yet secretly scared not only of Garbh Bheinn herself (now ominously shrouded in mist), but also of our coming days dodging the gales and gullies of Glen Coe, Ben Nevis and Skye. Perhaps we’d be out of our depth just rubbing shoulders with the likes of the Aonach Eagach or Ledge Route? Even if not, would we tire of feeling shattered?

I think there’s possibly a paradox at work here… for if our fondest memories can seem a little rose-tinted, as though we’re filtering out the worries and hassles, then it is these same challenges which ultimately make the experience all the more rewarding. In other words, these were happy times, not in spite of the challenges, but because of them! :-)

Yours Truly on Garbh Bheinn Summit, 2003
(Photo by Nigel Mann)

In the event, while our ascent of Garbh Bheinn had gone relatively smoothly, the descent would turn into something of an epic. Don’t get me wrong, it wasn’t exactly Touching the Void*… but an ill-timed navigational error was enough to set our hearts racing (and Mars bars melting) as we drifted off course and had to conjure a way down through the ‘clag’ and the crags. After a few wrong turns and tumbles, we’d eventually been deposited safely back into Coire an Iubhair… possibly just downstream from where I was now packing up my tripod and unpacking this stash of memories.

*For those interested in mountaineering or real-life survival stories, Touching the Void is well worth checking out - both Joe Simpson’s classic book and the later drama-documentary. I’m doubtful that my current ramblings will ever spawn a similar drama-documentary of our adventure on Garbh Bheinn, though you never know? (I’m not sure who would be cast as me and my Dad, but I’m thinking the vibe would be something akin to Tom Cruise and Dustin Hoffman in Rain Man…?)

How long had it been anyway? From a rough chronology in the back of my mind, I’d guessed at somewhere around a couple of decades. But time can play funny tricks. Was it really 20 years? Maybe it was more like 15, or 25 - or anywhere in between. I hadn’t checked; in fact, I wasn’t even sure that I could check.

I also had a vague notion that I might have once scanned and digitised some old dog-eared prints of our day on Garbh Bheinn, though couldn’t be sure of that either. I’d only known that I’d wanted to return, and almost hadn’t made it. For right now - back in 2023 - this was the last afternoon of our holiday, and therefore my last-chance saloon!

I contemplated these points as I hurried back along the glen toward the car, concerned (as ever) that I was running late. And the more I hurried, the more my boots stumbled and stuttered. Still, as I began to make headway through the heathery bogs, I realised that I would be sorry to leave this special place.

I’ve mentioned that I’d intended Heart of the Corrie to be my parting shot, but something made me pause when I’d almost reached the road. Glancing back, I decided to capture a final view of the walk-in to Coire an Iubhair - no tripod or filters, just a quick handheld shot. I told myself that the lone tree and meandering river made this an arty landscape composition, though in truth the tree was nowhere near prominent enough and the light way too flat. Contrary to my usual ‘photoshoot’ philosophy, I knew that I was simply documenting this scene for posterity. But I took the shot anyway, feeling slightly guilty that I’d wasted a minute or two of my tight return journey.

I’d later be glad that I had secured this image… for when I finally checked my scanned photo archives (back in Devon), I found that an equivalent composition had kick-started our ascent of Garbh Bheinn all those years before. Taken together, these two casual snaps served as inadvertent bookends spread across a couple of decades.

In the earlier shot my Dad strode purposefully ahead, while a rare burst of sunlight illuminated some Highland cows beyond (and possibly a few sheep). No such sunlight (or sunlit beasties) graced the 2023 vista, for which the viewpoint was also slightly different. But notwithstanding these temporal details, the immutable crags and mountain skylines gave their usual illusion of permanence.

As if confirmation were needed, this was proof positive that I had indeed returned to the right place. This was Coire an Iubhair, Corrie of the Yew, and those rough slopes beyond belonged to the incomparable Garbh Bheinn of Ardgour

By rights, this is where my story of Garbh Bheinn should end: an unremarkable tale of a middling photoshoot in grey afternoon light. And while the earlier expedition adds a bit of spice, the original scanned pics were really just a scrappy bonus, forgotten and unplanned until I saw an opportunity of padding out this write-up.

But in preparing this account, by now a couple of months after returning from the Western Highlands, I realised that I still found something special in my Garbh Bheinn shoot. For some reason, I held it in higher esteem than the photos themselves probably warranted (though I do quite like a couple of them!). This reason was almost certainly connected to that age-old ascent with my Dad. So curiosity eventually got the better of me, and I decided to look up exactly how much time had elapsed… or to put it another way, how much of that tumbling burn’s water had passed under the proverbial bridge.

The archive pics were scanned from old prints, of course, so they held no digital time/date stamp. I was none the wiser there. But it now dawned on me that there was another means of researching this information: hard as it may be to believe (given my own happy-go-lucky persona), my Dad has always been fastidious about compiling notes on our walking expeditions. I was pretty sure that I had an electronic copy somewhere, which I soon tracked down to a dusty corner of my hard-drive. And there it was: the evidence that I’d unknowingly been seeking…

The first thing to say is that our 2023 Moidart holiday took place in September, and our final full day - my Garbh Bheinn photoshoot - was in the middle of the month. The 15th, to be precise. Perusing my Dad’s hill-walking notes, I confirmed that our Garbh Bheinn trip had also taken place in the early autumn - also September, in fact - and the year had been 2003. So the elapsed time had indeed been roughly two decades… job done!

A Soggy Day on Marsco,
Isle of Skye
(18th Sept 2003)

Yet my Dad’s old Word document was now drawing me in… still scanning his notes from the autumn of 2003, I shivered as my eyes came to rest on a salutary account of ascending Marsco (Skye) in the pouring rain. The awful conditions had put the high peaks of the Cuillin well and truly out of bounds, and Marsco should have been the easy option; but I vividly recall exhausted limbs battling interminable slopes, up and up and up, culminating in the steepest and wettest grass I’d ever seen (or clung onto!). That had been the 18th of September.

Scrolling up, the day before described an epic adventure on Ben Nevis. We’d both approached the Ben’s formidable North Face, then I’d scrambled up Ledge Route and crossed the summit… before a gale roared in and I was almost blown from the Carn Mor Dearg Arête. So that was why I’d been so exhausted on Marsco (both mentally and physically)! Happy days!

The day before that - September the 16th - had seen us exploring the western summits of the notorious Aonach Eagach ridge high above Glen Coe, its razor-sharp edge cutting through the cloud like a cleaver. We’d taken a ‘rain check’ on the full ridge traverse (which seemed to evoke Mission: Impossible), though achieved what we’d set out to do (i.e. stay alive for a little longer!).

And before that - here it was at last - Garbh Bheinn of Ardgour. As realisation began to dawn, I skimmed my Dad’s account: superb mountain… boggy path… false summits (coming back to me now!) thickening mist… rock bands… summit cairn (yippee!) scree-filled rake… clearly off line (yep, all going wrong now!) hidden boulders and holes… several tumbles (yikes!) epic descent (and breathe!). And the date? The middle of September. To be precise: the 15th.

Cutting the Cloud like a Cleaver:
Aonach Eagach, Glen Coe
(16th Sept 2003)

So there it was… seemingly at random, I’d re-visited Garbh Bheinn on the 20th anniversary of its ascent. To the day. As the song goes, “It was twenty years ago today…” - not that Sgt. Pepper taught the band to play, but We climbed Garbh Bheinn and then lost our way. And in finding our way down through those misty crags, during the afternoon of 15th September 2003, we’d gained our bearings by sighting the very same stretch of water (give or take) that I’d photographed 20 years later (virtually to the minute) and sentimentally called Heart of the Corrie! :-0

As I pondered this revelation, I remembered that I really should have re-visited Garbh Bheinn earlier in the holiday. To leave it so late was, frankly, just bad planning on my part. I’d actually set out for it a few days beforehand, only diverting to Loch Shiel on the spur of the moment. And indeed, I’d only made it to Garbh Bheinn on this final afternoon - which turned out to be the 20th anniversary - because a few free hours had unexpectedly opened up. If I were mystically inclined, I might almost call it fated!

But is it destiny - something pre-ordained by the Highland mountain gods - or mere coincidence? People will obviously have their own thoughts and pre-conceptions on this.

Beneath Ledge Route, North Face of Ben Nevis
(17th Sept 2003; Photo by Nigel Mann)

My own training is scientific in nature… and although I’ve always held a strong interest in quirky or (alleged) paranormal occurrences, some of my formative life experiences have made me a rationalist and a sceptic. This is not to trivialise or diminish the occurrences in question, which are usually full of wonder. The power, I think, is in the stories themselves.

So for me, the story can be both amazing and a happy coincidence. One doesn’t preclude the other, even if neither (necessarily) requires anything akin to divine intervention.

So that’s my take - but I love the fact that I may be wrong! And if I am wrong, perhaps I’ll answer to those Highland mountain gods in another 20 years? ;-)

Garbh Bheinn Addendum - A Hill-Wanderer’s Diary (15th Sept 2003)

Since I’ve now run out of Garbh Bheinn pictures, I should leave the last word to my Dad. In terms of presenting evidence of the original date (and therefore my subsequent Ardgour anniversary), this is really Exhibit A… the actual account of our ascent all those years ago. So don your most comfortable slippers, put the kettle on, and prepare to run the full gamut of mountaineering madness…

From the hill-walking chronicles of Nigel Mann (reproduced with kind permission):-

Garbh Bheinn  (2903 ft)

  Monday, September 15th, 2003                                                                          Distance:  6 miles;   Height:  3150 ft   

This superb mountain is the highest point in Ardgour, across the Corran Ferry from the A 82.  We started at the bridge over the Abhain Coire an Iubhair, following a very boggy path into the coire, with Garbh Bheinn rising sharply on our left and two ‘Grahams’ enclosing the coire on our right.  From a distance, the mountain had been clear, with its ‘Great Gully’ prominent.  However as we walked further up the coire, the upper part of the mountain became shrouded in cloud, denying us a view of its amazing rocky architecture.  The final section to the bealach was entertaining, the stream being followed in its narrow grassy channel.  The bealach contained a lochan and lunch was taken at this delightful spot.  Our route onwards lay up a steep grassy gully to the South which cut through the cliffs to enter a coire on our right.  Here we met two keen walkers, one having completed all the ‘Munros’ and ‘Corbetts’ and now working his way through the ‘Grahams’.  With only a little loss of height, we were able to work around the crags on our left, and after several false summits in thickening mist, with rock bands giving easy scrambling, we reached the summit cairn.  The descent to the prominent col at 2450 ft was easy and a steep descent to our outward path was possible from here.  However we continued on a path towards the mountain’s South-East Top, at one point going up a scree-filled rake.  Again several false tops were passed in the mist, before reaching the top (Sron a’Gharbh Choire Bhig) at 2700 ft.  The broad ridge continued downwards, quite gently at first, in a South-Easterly direction.  As it steepened, and still in thick mist, we saw steep cliffs looming upwards on our right.  We were clearly off line, having strayed too far left and unsure if our spur would end in crags.  We retraced our steps some way, and then contoured to the right, but there was still a large deep hollow to our right and our ridge presumably to the right of that.  A brief clearance in the mist showed us that a grassy ramp led steeply down to this corrie beside the base of some cliffs and we decided to attempt a descent this way.  We followed the stream from this coire and soon we were able to see the main valley floor, and that our route would ‘go’.  The way down was over thick grass and heather, with hidden boulders and holes, resulting in several tumbles.  We had in fact followed the main stream down from the Gharbh Choire Bhig ridge and now returned by the muddy outward path.  And so my first ‘Corbett’ had given us an epic descent.

Weather:  dry and cloudy with thick mist on the mountain.                                                                        (1100-1725)         

Coming Full Circle (A Cornish Conclusion, November 2023)

The Coast of Kernow - Shadow of The Mount

So another year is drawing to a close, and I’m coming ‘full circle’ in the sense that this 2023 Gallery is ending where it all began: somewhere down in deepest, darkest Cornwall…

It’s become something of a tradition for us to escape to the Cornish coast as autumn gives way to winter, the deserted (desert-like) beaches providing ample compensation for the dark nights and oft-stormy weather. And besides, Karen (who loves the coast) has a November birthday to consider!

This year’s late autumn sojourn took us to Marazion, a village near Penzance which is renowned for offering access to the iconic tidal island of St. Michael’s Mount. With such a celebrated subject close at hand, my small number of ‘photoshoots’ were conducted straight from our front door, the coastline beneath allowing for a mini-study of Mount’s Bay.

This was also my first time trying out a new carbon-fibre tripod - my long-awaited Benro Tortoise had finally arrived - so you may need to excuse the odd gratuitous long exposure! :-)

A Walk Beside the Waves
(Hayle Sands)

Before I present my ‘photoshoot’ images of St. Michael’s Mount, I’ll give just a brief flavour of our broader holiday through a handful of more touristy snaps. I took these during family trips to various beaches, employing my usual sneaky trick of ‘borrowing’ Karen’s wee Canon. They mostly depict the vast expanse of Hayle Sands (near St. Ives), before calling in at Marazion itself (a partial reflection of the ‘Castle on the Mount’), then wrapping up with another joint selfie at the wonderfully wild Sennen Cove (specifically Whitesand Bay).

I should also give a (dis)honourable mention to Rocky the dog, without whom our week away just wouldn’t have been the same (it would have been more relaxing, for starters!). Moogie was enjoying a break of her own back in sunny Devon with Gran and Gramps, but Rocky accompanied us to the seaside and had a rare old time gallivanting around on the sand. The shot of him chewing his toy bone was taken at our Marazion holiday home, China Doll’s House, which made for a cosy wee bolt-hole whenever that ‘Cold November Rain’ fell.

(Weather aside, the other reason for not wanting to leave the house was the thought of squeezing our swish but bulky new motor back into its pocket-sized parking space. With all those proximity sensors going off at once, it sounded like the Starship Enterprise on red alert!) :-0

Pools and Patterns
(Hayle Sands)

And now onto my modest collection of Cornish ‘photoshoots’, featuring the unoriginal yet unavoidably seductive subject of St. Michael’s Mount…

The images below are actually collated from three separate shoots, the first of which was an early morning effort comprising just a single shot (‘A Break Between Storms’). My other two shoots were both at the other end of their respective days, closer to dusk.

For my final shoot of the holiday, the desired sunset didn’t really materialise - so I instead searched for a distinctive foreground and stumbled across a boulder which I dubbed Neptune Rock, on account of its likeness to a face rising from the sea (or maybe I'd had one smuggled rum too many?).

Whether Neptune-related or not, it's curious that a magnitude 2.7 earthquake would have its epicentre in Mount’s Bay shortly afterwards, just hours after we’d returned home to Devon. Perhaps a lucky escape - and if nothing else, the quake would certainly have provided an interesting challenge for that new tripod! :-0

A Break Between Storms
(Morning Light, Mount's Bay)

Guardian of the Mount
(Gathering Dusk, Mount's Bay)

2023 Retrospective - A Fickle Wave Farewell

As there are no Christmas shots this year (I was pleased to call it a proper festive break!), the time has come to hand over the photographic reins to 2024. But before wrapping up this page and filing it away for posterity, I have just a few concluding words and pictures - including a retrospective mini-gallery of 2023, plus a resurrected bonus print from the ‘Stormy Cornwall’ archives…

Keen-eyed readers may recall that, at the corresponding conclusion of my 2022 Gallery, I reviewed my progress through the year and laid out a kind of ’mission statement’ on how to take this website forward. Don’t worry, I’ve no intention of carrying out the same degree of analysis here*: however, I have reflected on the fact that not all of my best-laid plans have come to fruition!

*Actually, I’ve again ended up writing more than intended… which is ironic, because that’s exactly what I’m writing about! ;-0

Let’s start with a positive: on one hand, I’m satisfied that my Portfolio pages were successfully created at the start of 2023. And although I’m sometimes a little slow to update them, this key corner of my website hopefully provides a nice, concise way of displaying my favourite images, arranged as thematic highlights. If this was part of a New Year’s resolution for my website, I’d be happy to give it a tick in the box.

On the other hand, evidence of my failed website resolution lies right before you, forming such a barrier that you’ve probably stopped reading long ago (though I’ll continue anyway!). I’m speaking of my aim to make my annual gallery pages (from 2023 onwards) much more concise and selective, as opposed to padding them out with all manner of holiday anecdotes and family snapshots, etc.

Although I started out with the best of intentions, a cursory glance at the reams of text above - covering family escapades all the way from Cornwall to Arran to Moidart (then back again to Cornwall) - will confirm that I fell off the wagon quite dramatically as the year progressed!

Which has got me wondering: what would a whistle-stop tour of 2023 look like if I removed all of the literary bells and whistles? A kind-of ‘potted portfolio’ of the year (a ‘top 30’, if you like)? Well, possibly something like this…

So how do I feel about my failed pledge of brevity? Again, I’m in two minds. I’ve found that my write-ups come about quite organically, emerging from the ether only because I genuinely love the places and subjects that take centre-stage in my frame. I hope that some of this sentiment is conveyed on the page… but even if not, I’m glad that I’ve at least attempted to follow my muse. If nothing else, the process itself can be cathartic.

Then again, my earlier reservations about verbose annual galleries clearly still stand. For one thing, I’ve yet to get a handle on the target audience for my website (if such a demographic even exists). Am I preparing content for fellow photography enthusiasts? Or maybe nature lovers? For Jo(e) Public generally? Or a close-knit knot of family and friends?

Aside from the latter category (who might skim-read under sufferance!), I don’t imagine many folk will be interested in the finer points of my holiday jaunts. Still, does that really matter? Perhaps I should just do this for myself… after all, my photography is purely a hobby, not a career or business. And however I play things, I’m hardly likely to attract an army of online followers. Let’s face it, the nearest I ever get to being an ‘influencer’ is when I put the recycling out promptly and remind the neighbours that tomorrow is bin day… which in Karen’s view makes me a ‘bin-fluencer’!

But despite the above wavering (some might say ‘havering’), I do plan to implement my pledge of brevity as the clock ticks over into 2024. And the reason for this is a simple practical one: my ramblings take quite a toll on my free time, meaning that I’m looking back more than I look forward. Much as I crave contemplation and nostalgia, I need to create space for exciting new adventures, photographic or otherwise.*

*That’s not to say I shouldn’t ‘blog’ occasionally - indeed, an expanded version of this page’s ‘Goatfell Murder’ account (Arran Intrigue - The Curious Case of Rose and Laurie) has been hanging around as a draft blog for a little while now. It awaits completion and publication during 2024 (touch wood!)…

But talking of looking back - and since this section is technically still considering Cornwall - it would be remiss of me to move on from 2023 without acknowledging the year’s one partial success in a photography competition. I’m actually a little wary of including this, as it’s nothing to write home about… and anyway, I’m not generally a fan of competitive photography (admittedly an easy stance to take while being rebuffed!). However, the process of occasionally entering your work can prompt some useful self-reflection, as well as adding an element of spice to proceedings (at least until results are announced and the bubble is inevitably burst!).

In my case the competition in question was decidedly parochial, being run internally by (and for) the UK Met Office. The purpose was to identify a shortlist of seven images, naturally depicting weather, each of which would be professionally printed and hung (with caption) in a refurbished meeting room at the organisation’s Exeter headquarters. So, if you think of it this way, the outcome was also the prize (as well as quenching the organiser’s quest for affordable new art!). Each entrant could submit up to five pictures for consideration by the meteorologically-inclined panel.

Now one problem with all of this is that I’m not really a ‘weather’ photographer (per se). Yes, there is often weather in my photos - and I appreciate golden light or dramatic skies as much as the next happy snapper - yet weather is rarely my primary subject. As a result, I realised that I’d need to be slightly creative in my archival selection process!

In the event, I chose four fairly recent images from Fuji X-T3 ‘photoshoots’, all of which happened to feature sky to supplement something of interest on the ground. Not necessarily my best work - and as I’ve said, perhaps not strictly weather-focused - but together they at least presented a variety of scenes and photographic techniques…

For my fifth and final submission, I threw in a token archive pic from way back in November 2014 - effectively a Cornish holiday snap from a family trip to the seaside, taken using my archaic Fuji ‘bridge’ camera on auto mode.

And yes, you’ve guessed it… the one shot which crept into the competition shortlist was my old holiday snap!*

*I should clarify that this wasn’t the outright winner, though who’s counting… it did at least qualify for exhibiting!

As for the titles and captions that we’d been asked to submit alongside each photograph… my shortlisted caption survived relatively intact (see image blurb below), though my proposed title of Any Hut in a Storm was met with confusion. In my mind, this suggested a darkly comedic tale of the foreground surfer/swimmer battling to reach the safety of the pier’s Lookout Hut, despite the fact that the storm had rendered this precarious wee structure anything but safe.

It was also (as I awkwardly explained to the panel) a play on the well-known phrase, Any Port in a Storm. Admittedly not a very good play. In fact, once this link was understood, an executive decision was taken to go with the un-punny version… so Any Port in a Storm it became (and maybe that’s for the best!).

Any Port in a Storm (Nov 2014)
The Lookout Hut at Portreath, Cornwall, clings to the jetty in the aftermath of a wild November storm. While most folk wisely steer clear, a lone intrepid surfer dares to confront the waves…

But captions aside, this had only ever really been a token entry. So while I was delighted to end up with an artwork on display at the Met Office, the success felt somewhat bittersweet.

For one thing, although I did quite like the chosen image - the breaking wave was dynamic, the surfer (as I’ve said) suggestive of a human story - it was hardly an original concept. On top of which, if I’m honest, something about its processing or colour palette felt slightly cartoonish.

Anyway, did my most lauded example of weather photography really date from nine years ago, long before I’d started to take my muse more seriously? If I live by the oft-quoted maxim of only competing with my former self, is this a battle which I’m steadily losing?*

*I should note that the weather photography competition pre-dated my Sept 2023 Moidart trip, which may have yielded some stronger contenders… or then again, maybe not (who can say?)!

At the end of the day, though, it’s all fine… I shouldn’t over-analyse. As the pictured surfer might have put it, mere seconds after the photo was taken, “Worse things happen at sea!”.

I think the lesson here is to just let things be, and to be grateful if any of our humble offerings, from any era, are appreciated by others.

And crucially, to acknowledge that it’s folly to dwell on which of our creations might resonate with other folk - for the power of art lies not in the artefact itself, but in the way that its message interacts with each viewer (all of whom bring different sensibilities, if not senses).

And on that breaking wave of wisdom, I’ll wave a fickle farewell to 2023! ;-)